Project Bob78CVCC

[thesmogman]

Hi Bob,

Now those are what I was talk'in about!! Sweet.... I bet if you licked them they would taste like candy.

:cheer_leader :D

[Hondastuff]

Hey Bob - Hope all is going OK - a week ago, I received a message about 12" rims - it was garbled on the voice mail system - was that you....?

[bob78cvcc]

Hey Bob - Hope all is going OK - a week ago, I received a message about 12" rims - it was garbled on the voice mail system - was that you....?

Hi Tony, yep, it was me. Hope all is well with you! Thanks, Bob

[bob78cvcc]

Picked the car up from the body shop today.
The strangest thing occurred.
The tachometer was working!
http://youtu.be/L5Nn443IJew" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
What the heck is going on with that tachometer?
Where is the mysterious gremlin that decides to make it work hiding?
Must be a funky connection somewhere in the engine bay near the coil.
The coil cover was a bit askew. The detail person probably moved it cleaning around the engine bay. :dunno

[bob78cvcc]

A few months ago I decided to try again to refinish the shift knob top.
I spray painted it with a rustoleum product and just let it sit and sit and sit.
I finally got a little motivated this past weekend and revisited the top.
I may have accidentally discovered the secret to a better refinishing method.
The few months that it sat in the garage gave it ample opportunity to dry and cure.
I took my time removing the overspray. I dare say that perhaps I could take even more off
but don't want to chance over doing it.
My previous practice attempt which is currently inserted in the knob and clear coated does not look nearly as good to me.
I may remove the paint and start over using my new method.
Now I need to find time to clear coat the new top and see how it compares.

[bob78cvcc]

On your fuel pump, you can take the top off and clean the electric contacts, they are much like a set of points in the distributor. Just use a fine emery cloth or jewelers file to clean up the surface, as it is not the original there should be no great wear on the contacts, just a little corrosion.

Did clean the points today and tried to test the pump while it was out of the car.
I connected to black/yellow wire to the positive side of the battery and the black wire to the negative side of the battery.
I could not get the pump to click. What would be the correct way to test the pump before putting it back in the car?
As an aside, I hooked up an NOS pump and a used pump to the battery too and no clicks.

[thesmogman]

Hi Bob,

Just went through this and if it doesn't work straight to the battery then..... Rockauto!!!

The contact arm was off of my original, I was able to pop it back in and bend a tab in there to make it stay but I did not think I would want to trust this.

[bob78cvcc]

Hi Bob,

Just went through this and if it doesn't work straight to the battery then..... Rockauto!!!

The contact arm was off of my original, I was able to pop it back in and bend a tab in there to make it stay but I did not think I would want to trust this.

So straight to the battery as I described should produce the clicks; otherwise it's bad?

[bob78cvcc]

Back in 2010 I discovered that someone had swapped out an OEM fuel pump for a Purolator pump.
http://www.1stgencivic.com/forum/viewto ... &start=180" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
They did a dodgy splice in and I should've repaired the wires better than I did when I put the OEM pump back in.
I'm thinking my failing fuel pumps were more a bad splice connection than pump failure.
Today, I soldered the splices and hopefully solved the problem.

Has anyone encountered any issues with butchered fuel filters when pulling the rubber hoses from the nipples?
I never had one stretch and twist like this. :roll:

[Bill]

The only filter that I ever saw do that was on a Civic that was running alcohol. a change to metal filter took care of all those issues.