DIY: Complete 32/36 Weber Install CVCC *Lots of Pics*

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Shaguar47
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DIY: Complete 32/36 Weber Install CVCC *Lots of Pics*

Postby Shaguar47 » September 27th, 2011, 11:44 am

Alright guys, here it is! This is the best DIY I can conjure up after a weekend of installation, so lets do this.

*NOTES: I take no responsibilities in any mishaps or damages done to you or your car with this DIY.

This is to take a stock '79-82 EK1 1.8l CVCC carburetor off your engine and to bolt on a brand-new 32/36 WEBER with adapter plates and have it start up the first time. This will also work for any Accord with the EK1 (late 1st gen, early 2nd), a few things may be slightly different depending on your options. The following DIY was done on a 1981 Prelude with a recent 1982 EK1 engine swap from an '82 Prelude.

You'll need the following to proceed with the DIY:
(1) - Part# K725, 32/36 Weber DGEV WEBER Carburetor w/ Electric Choke (#22680.033B carburetor #)
(1) - Part# 99004.120, CVCC Adapter Plates w/ Hardware (Redline Fuel Management sells these)
(1) - Cable Bracket Hardware
(1) - Chrome Air Filter or equivalent that fits a WEBER.

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Tools you'll need are:
- Socket Set
- Screwdrivers (Phillips & Flathead)
- Combination or open-end wrenches
- 6mm Allen Wrench
- Gasket Scraper Knife (this is debatable on how bad your gaskets are)
- Wiping Rags & Cleaning Solvents
- Gasket Sealer (Do not use Silicone or RTV)

Click on the following links and PRINT these out directly from REDLINE! This is what was included with our kit that we bought directly and vital to the install.
- Plate Adapter Install (http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/typical_adapter_plate_install.htm)
- Weber Bench Assembly (http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/weber_carburetor_bench_assembly.htm)
- Weber Setup & Idle (http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm)
- Best Idle (http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/idf.htm)
- DGV Install Views (http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/typical_dgv_carb_install_views.htm)

1. First thing first, locate your favorite beverage, turn on the radio and get ready to enjoy yourself when tearing out all the fun with the Keihn carburetor and it's life lines.

2. Next park the car in a suitable spot and open the hood. Disconnect the battery and remove the gas cap (to relieve the pressure in the fuel system).

*Note: Please do this when the car is cold and not warm. If you ran the car, please let it cool down for an hour before touching anything inside the engine bay or else your come out with some battle burns.

3. Now the fun. Look at your air box assembly and take off the cover. Unscrew the two bolts holding it to the stock carburetor and lift up. There will be hoses and such underneath (air temp sensor and such). Unplug them and unplug your air cleaner hose going to the front of the car.

4. Next locate the three black boxes on the firewall with all the vacuum lines going into them. (May be only two black boxes depending on your model type). Lift these straight up out of their brackets and follow the vacuum lines slowly to the carburetor and starting unplugging.

*NOTES: There will be an endless supply of hoses being unplugged so don't fret, everything will be alright.

5. Next locate the fuel line and disconnect it while holding a rag so you don't get gas everywhere. It should be on the right side of the carburetor with a red braided line (ours was replaced at some point so it was black).

6. Next unplug all the electrical connections. There should only be a few for the choke and other sensors.

7. Unplug the black boxes and lift up all the vacuum lines with them. There will be a long, molded together manifold of metal pipelines behind the carburetor with lines coming out it. Take this out too alongside the boxes.

8. Once you have it all out, throw it in a box and say good by. Might be a good idea to keep a few hoses for future use in case you need one.

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9. Remove the charcoal canister and it's hoses. You don't need this anymore too.

10. Now that everything is off the carburetor, it's time to remove the !!!LANGUAGE TIMOTHY!!! of a child Keihn. It's bolted down with (4) 12mm nuts. Get a wrench and undo all four bolts. Lift the carburetor up and make sure you take the gaskets with it. Also be careful when unplugging the throttle cable and do not to kink it. You should be left with a cleared intake opening and four studs sticking up.

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11. Next remove the studs buy doing the double nut trick. Thread a nut halfway down the stud and then thread another nut on the stud till it meets the first nut. Take two wrenches and tighten them against each other, so this way you can than take a wrench and turn the bottom nut, which in turn will unscrew the stud. Works like a charm everytime!

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12. Next you'll be left with this.

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13. Now's a good time to clean off any gasket baked on the intake or left over when you pulled off the carburetor. Ours was surprisingly clean.

14. Now it's adapter time. Take the CVCC weber adapter (Ours was Part# 99004.120 from Redline) and lay it out.

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15. Next take the Bottom Plate Gasket and place it on the intake like so. (All the gaskets and plates are laid out in the picture above in order)

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16. Apply gasket sealer and then take the bottom adapter plate and lay on top of the gasket while lining up the holes. Find the included (4) 8mm tapered allen screws and screw them in as so.

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17. Next lay the intermediate gasket on top of the bottom adapter plate while applying a small amount of gasket sealant on it.

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18. Now find the Top adapter plate and locate the included Power Brake Booster fitting. You'll need to screw this in to the side of the adapter so you'll have vacuum for your brakes. Don't want to crash now do you?

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19. Now take a small break and admire the beauty of the CVCC intake. Isn't it just dull with having two chambers instead of one. If you know nothing about CVCC, go find an article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CVCC and read up. Maybe with some dremeling and some clever marking, you could cut out the barrier and make it one chamber while smoothing the opening. ;)

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20. Locate the 4 studs included with the kit and get out the pliers. Slowly turn the stud into each of the holes, being careful not to go no further than the bottom of the plate. I found that it eventually got harder to turn as you touch the bottom plate so no worries, just stop turning it.

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21. Next put the carburetor gasket on with some gasket sealer.

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22. Now it's time to mount the shiny new toy! :twisted:

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23. Before we install it, we need to adjust the throttle linkage just a bit. Take the carburetor and turn it around until you see this.

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24. Take off the small nut keeping the throttle assembly together and take off the following. (There may be a little tab you have to bend around the nut to get it to turn.)

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25. Next get the throttle bracket equipment included with your WEBER (if you bought this as a kit) and replace it with the following pieces.

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26. Find the little nut with two studs on opposite ends with tons of washers already on it. This is what your cable will connect too. Unscrew the nut on the studs and take the washers off. The opposite side should have a little pin you'll need to bend straight and pull out. This is also the end you want to have connected to the throttle plate you just added on.

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27. Position the WEBER on the studs accordingly to the picture, keeping the fuel line openings to the right of the engine and the throttle linkage to the left side. Go ahead and bolt it down with the supplied four nuts, tightening in a X pattern.

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28. Next wrap the throttle cable around the back of the engine, under the intake and curve it so it meets up to the throttle linkage. There will be an included bracket (which I did not a take picture of) that bolts down on the rear two studs on the carburetor) You can see in the picture below.

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29. Now feed the throttle cable through the bracket and lead it to the linkage you just put on. Now tighten the end of it down as so. There will be play but you can adjust the tightness by the two adjusting screws on the cable at the bracket you just fed it through. You can see these also in the picture.

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*NOTES: As you can see, I had to adjust the cable to give me the almost maximum shortness on the cable. It works but I plan on updating this DIY with a newer throttle linkage setup so there isn't so much slack. *

30. Make sure the throttle opens and closes. You'll also want to run the included the spring on the back of the throttle assembly so when you let off the gas, it brings the assembly back to it's closing position. Placing a spring on the plate with all the holes and running the spring to somewhere near where you can hook it onto is the best setup. For ours, we ran it to the bolts on the valve cover for the time being.

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31. Next take the hose for the fuel line you unplugged and hook it up. If you have a return line (second line coming out of it), just stick a bolt in it to block it off. It's only to circulate the fuel back to the gas tank and the carburetor worked fine without it.

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*NOTE: We later had some leaking at the mini fuel filter on this line (stupid '82 models needing 2 fuel filters) and just replaced with a solid one line coming from the firewall to the carburetor. Works like a charm. You already have a fuel filter in the rear towards the fuel pump anyways.*

32. Next hook up the electronic choke on the front of the carburetor. Run a wire from it to the choke wire on the fire wall coming out of the engine harness. This wire is black with a yellow stripe on it. If you don't have this, find a suitable wire that has 12v's when you turn on the ignition but cuts off when the car is off.

33. Hook up the brake booster line to the brake booster connection on the adapter plate. Straight forward hookup.

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34. Next run a hose from your distributor to the additional vacuum port on the front of the carburetor.

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35. Now it's time to finish our setup with it's crown! :D Place the air cleaner gasket on top of the carburetor and than place the filter tray, bolt down the 4 bolts and clamp on the air filter with it's cover.

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36. Once this is done. Make sure you have the following hooked up correctly:
- Fuel line
- Choke wire
- Throttle cable (a little slack is okay, but you want enough to open the throttle)
- Distributor vacuum line

37. Reconnect the battery and put the fuel gas cap back on.

38. Now the moment of truth. Double check everything once more. Get your tools out of the engine back and lets fire her up. Give it a little gas as you attempt to turn the engine over as the fuel bowls in the carburetor need to be filled up, but don't over do it.

Here is a quick video of our start up. Did it on second try! :D
http://youtu.be/14_ASP9-W90

39. If she fires up, run it a little bit and then turn it off. She should purr and run smooth. Note any hiccups or sounds (especially vacuum leaks) as she's running for the moment.

40. Re-check everything (especially your fuel line) and then start it back up.

*NOTES: If it idles high, put your foot under the gas pedal and lift towards you. You can also take you finger and press back on the throttle linkage as it's most likely binding a little. *

So there you have it! Kick back and crack open a cold one cause you just upgraded your shaggy old Keihn carburetor to the world of WEBER. You just saved your old SN and were proud of ya! 8-)

Next post will be about our linkage setup and what works better to get a tighter throttle. Plus also more pics on the setup and wiring. Till then, hope you all enjoy! Now back to work!


*11/10/11 UPDATE*

carburetor is running lean and will have to be adjusted. More tutorials to come. I also just ordered a new 32/36 weber for my own prelude as this tutorial was for a friends prelude.

Here's a quick pic I found on the net for some reference if anyone is curious as to how the weber works.

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Last edited by Shaguar47 on March 7th, 2012, 4:16 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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AHHVTEC
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Postby AHHVTEC » September 27th, 2011, 1:21 pm

efin awesome right up man good job, i just ordered the k725 kit for my 83 civic 1500 yesterday and it looks to be the very same steps as yours, this is gona make it a ton easier for me, cant wait for part two of your write up. good job man 8)

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Postby AHHVTEC » September 27th, 2011, 1:32 pm

and was was wondering on that last gasket before you sit the carburetor on it do you put gasket sealer on this then sit the carburetor on it.to where there is sealer between the gasket and carburetor.

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Postby nismo » September 27th, 2011, 3:44 pm

Nice write up nathan.

Ill get round to swaping mine eventually. :D

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Postby eurobeaner » September 27th, 2011, 4:26 pm

Awesome! Me too

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Postby HondaCarCare1 » September 27th, 2011, 5:14 pm

Wow. Excellent write-up. Love all the details and pictures. I'm sure many members will benefit from this, and for that I thank you. :D

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Postby Thor » September 27th, 2011, 5:51 pm

Absolutely superb ''how-to'', with one reservation regarding the throttle cable connector to the quadrant.

I personally would not be happy with the split pin rotating either against the quadrant plate or even a washer. I feel that for safety's sake [loss of throttle on a multi-lane highway] a better solution must be found.
I anticipate from the quality of the article that you have indeed identified this issue and part 2 is the resolution.

Could the Keihin quadrant be modified to fit and still use the Honda cable?

Brilliant article, shows us all not only how to do th econversion, but also how to do a ''how to do'' guide.
Well done
Pete

Shaguar47
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Postby Shaguar47 » September 28th, 2011, 10:55 am

:D WOW, thanks so much guys! All your comments means alot and I'm glad I can help contribute. I love doing DIYs, so hopefully there's more to come!
Last edited by Shaguar47 on September 28th, 2011, 11:04 am, edited 1 time in total.


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