How to: Install Central Locking (Power Door Locks)

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moldy
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How to: Install Central Locking (Power Door Locks)

Postby moldy » January 2nd, 2009, 6:42 pm

Step 1:
1.1 Purchase central locking unit.
1.2 Components required (in my case) are: (a) control unit; (b) wiring loom; (c) actuators; and (d) fixing components.

Step 2:
2.1 Remove door skins.
2.2 Fit actuators (see picture 1, 2 and 3).
2.3 Check actuator is securely fastened in place, and check clearance between actuator, glass and window winder assembly.
2.4 If no clearance, adjust placement of actuator. If placement of actuator cannot be adjusted, slightly modify offending part. In our case we had to lightly grind corner of actuator. We also had to modify shape and length of securing rod which secures actuator to the car's locking mechanism rod.
2.5 Resecure if necessary.

Step 3:
3.1 Remove molded plastic inserts (that cover inside wheel hubs) and carpet. Dismount speaker on passenger side.
3.2 Invite friends over with very small hands.
3.3 Drill 4 holes: 1 hole on on each door near hinge; 1 hole on adjacent door frame. Make sure that the holes are not directly opposite. Approximately 10cm apart is appropriate (see picture 4).
3.5 Drill 1 hole: directly in line with door frame hole near fuse box (driver's side only (for Australian vehicles at least)).
3.6 Feed (on my kit) 5 wires through inside hole (near fuse box), door frame hole and hole on door for master actuator on driver's side (i.e., wires must go through 3 drilled holes and end up inside driver's side door). (see picture 4).
3.7 Connect wire ends with master actuator.
3.8 Thread wires for passenger door and control box behind steering assembly, and continue to thread wires for passenger door actuator behind carpet to holes previously drilled. On passenger side it is not necessary to drill a hole on inside the vehicle (a hole pre-exists for the speaker assembly).
3.9 Feed (on my kit) 2 wires through speaker hole, door frame hole and hole on door for slave actuator on passenger side (i.e., wires must go through 2 drilled holes and the speaker hole and end up inside passenger side door).
3.10 Connect wire ends with slave actuator.
3.11 Recheck clearance for window and winding mechanism, and adjust wires if necessary.

Step 4:
4.1 Disconnect one battery lead.
4.2 Find an appropriate wire under the dash that gives a constant 12v supply. We found a white wire feeding into the fuse box on the driver's side (see picture 5).
4.3 Splice power wire from control unit with constant 12v supply (see picture 6).
4.4 Find an appropriate earth (a metal connection to the body of the vehicle) for earth wire from control unit. We attached the earth wire from control unit to a screw behind the fuse box.
4.5 Attach earth wire to earth point.
4.6 Reattach battery lead.

Step 5:
5.1 Connect control unit to wiring loom (if not hard-wired).
5.2 Test that actuators work as designed (with wireless remote if supplied, or by using key in door if not a wireless system).
5.3 If actuators are working in reverse (i.e., lock is unlock, unlock is lock), then reverse connecting wires to actuator. We had this error, and found it easiest to begin with slave actuator. Our wire colours on the slave actuator were blue and green, and it followed that the blue and green wires on the master actuator were to ones to also switch around.
5.4 Re-test if necessary.

Step 6:
6.1 If everything is working as it should, replace speaker, carpets, molded fittings and door skins.
6.2 Secure control unit somewhere and tidy up loose wires with cable ties. Cover, if desired, exposed wired between body and door.
6.3 That's it. Hope somebody finds it useful.

Moldy.
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Last edited by moldy on January 4th, 2009, 4:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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moldy
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Postby moldy » January 4th, 2009, 4:37 am

Can I just add the following: I have no idea how I lived without this, it makes life SO much easier. Especially with all the recent rain we've been having!

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Postby Vulcan » January 4th, 2009, 11:04 am

moldy wrote:I have no idea how I lived without this, it makes life SO much easier.


I just rely on having long arms. Mind you, I am an Orang-Utang.

:wink:

Seriously though, as it goes, the central locking was misbehaving on Cpt. Scarlet when I bought it. I just unplugged it. Yes, I am a luddite.

Must say though, does look like a very neat, relatively non-invasive way to add a modern accoutrement to a Civic. :)

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Postby qdseeker » January 4th, 2009, 11:16 am

Mind if I ask what central locking is?

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Postby Vulcan » January 4th, 2009, 11:20 am

qdseeker wrote:Mind if I ask what central locking is?


:shock:

You lock the driver's door (on older systems) and they all lock.

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Postby qdseeker » January 4th, 2009, 11:24 am

AAAAAAhhhhhhhhhhhh, I was thinking that, but never heard it referred to as that. I've always known it as power door locks.

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Postby Vulcan » January 4th, 2009, 11:38 am

qdseeker wrote:AAAAAAhhhhhhhhhhhh, I was thinking that, but never heard it referred to as that. I've always known it as power door locks.


Ah. I see. :)

In the UK at least that would cause confusion, especially amongst Rover owners. To say 'power' implies there's force in the system, which as any metro owner (or former owner) will tell you just isn't the case. First sign of dampness and they're screwed. :roll:

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Postby qdseeker » January 4th, 2009, 12:01 pm

Power as in pressing a button on a remote and all the doors unlock at the same time. Is this what central locking is?


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