Project Bob78CVCC

[bob78cvcc]

Time to get moving again with this project. High heat & humidity of the summer hasn't been motivating me to get much done. The engine is chained down, shrink wrapped, palletized and on its way to the rebuilder. Now to get on with refinishing the engine bay.

[bob78cvcc]

Began the process of refinishing the engine bay. Spent today cleaning and degreasing 32 years of build up. Discovered more than surface rust on the front center beam. :twisted: Not sure whether or how to fix or simply replace. Bad choice of words with simply - simply would imply a front center beam in good condition was readily available. The fun continues.

[bob78cvcc]

If they don't now, and that's is an 'if', they will one day when there are a lot less of them getting around. That's why you should always hang onto original parts if you swap them out. I thought the CVCCs had a 5 speed?

I'd like to revisit this and seek out some advice and opinions.

My engine is torn down. There is evidence of water damage to 3 of 4 cylinders. The rod bearings are worn down to the copper. Three of the rods are bent. :twisted: Absolutely, no cross hatch pattern to be seen. This engine obviously is closer to 230,000 miles as opposed to 30,000 miles. There is evidence of metal marks in cylinder 1. The oil pump looks relatively new. The engine can be rebuilt.

Am I better off rebuilding this engine to keep original matching engine numbers or rebuilding a motor with much less mileage? OR swapping in a 1600 or 1751?

[Steph]

K20 would be the ideal swap IMO

[TREVORM]

swap! swap! swap! swap!

[Bill]

There is really little reason to keep matching numbers on these cars. At least at this point in the history of the cars. 1600 or 1751 are the easiest to swap in, as the motors are of the same configuration and fit well.
A "D" or "B" series requires fabrication and wiring and fuel supply work, so it's a little more involved, but really gives you a driveable reliable setup.

[Thor]

Try an EN1 fitted with an EB head.
Much discussion as to which, depends on fuel octane availability.
The Gremlin's engine is anEN4 bottom (same as EN1) with an EB1 'S' casting head.
it's got 12:1 comp and runs regular gas, mind you it goes better with super.
It's a straight bolt-in job.
Using the head off your engine (I'm guessing 1238 EB3) it would give around 10:1 comp and run okay on standard fuel.
How well?
16.9 for the quarter, no other mods, EN4 twin carburetor, and camshaft that came with the engine and are readily available around the world.
Just a thought.
we have a road tax break at 1400cc. it helps there as well as motorsport classes.
Just my humble opinion
Pete

[Steph]

Bob has got a CVCC which is perfect for a big K20 swap. 2 litres would make it move very fast

[bob78cvcc]

Ultimately, I'd like to keep it period original. It's not a daily driver and speed is not a priority. Reliability practicality and originality are more desired. The EC engine would also be an option. However, the EC, I assume would require a different carburetor and manifold set up vs. the CVCC.

[Brandon74]

Bob, you've come this far in preserving a piece of automotive history. Maintaining an original (or as close to it) drivetrain keeps closest to the spirit of that restoration.

While a "direct" swap to an EK/EL would give you a little more power (and reliability?), you would still have an engine of the same vintage. However, such a swap would give you the flexibility to return to an ED later on without much hassle if you changed your mind.

On a side note, would you consider picking up another 1st Gen specifically to go all out with? :twisted: