No cherry picker engine removal?

HOW?

Increasing the Power, Bolt on Upgrades, Cylinder Head, Bottom End, Performance Parts, Timing for the 1200
rover215
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No cherry picker engine removal?

Postby rover215 » March 29th, 2017, 8:31 pm

I found a car locally that I want to pull the engine and trans from. The car is rough but together (hood is still attached). It's also in the grass with only the rear wheels bolted on, so it's angled forward. Definitely a parts car. I want to pull the engine and trans but don't have a hoist. I'm thinking I can still jack it up enough to have it sit on jack stands (stands on small squares of plywood) and unbolt the transaxle, exhaust, etc. I can remove the head with carburetor in situ. By that time, the remaining block and exhaust manifold can't weigh too much, right?
With the hood removed, I'm thinking I could use a couple of tie-down straps and a roughly 6' bar to lift it out with a buddy. We only need to clear the front clip. We could drop it safely onto the ground without damaging it (NOT that we'd want to, but if we did drop it,...)
How's all this sound? Has anyone else removed the power plant without a hoist? If so, how? Got any tips?

This will be my second 1200 engine. The first I bought for $50 bc it shredded a timing belt and is probably damaged. This one has been sitting but has no catastrophic damage. Probably a much better foundation for a rebuild. Couldn't hurt to have both and take all the good parts and combine them. Still looking for a matching 1335 crank and con-rods for the build, too.

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BillyEno
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Re: No cherry picker engine removal?

Postby BillyEno » March 29th, 2017, 10:26 pm

You've got the right idea. It should be light enough to manhandle with just the intake and exhaust manifolds off, no need to pull the head unless you were planning to anyway.

Remember the transmission won't come loose from the engine unless you get the lower engine mount off. To do that you'll need to support the engine and transmission and drop the fore-aft cross-member. 3 bolts each end, I believe, and the nuts for the engine mount in the middle. There are 3 bolts on the mount. Be sure to grab the lower engine mount when you leave.

Take a 1/4" punch and a 3lb sledge to get the pin holding the linkage to the transmission out.

Don't forget to drain the transmission oil. There is a chance you can work the transmission off the axles with them bolt in. If not..

You will need separate the knuckle from the tie rod and the control arm. I presume you don't care about the rubber boots, so take a pickle fork that you can also use with the 3lb sledge to separate the ball joints after you get the cotter pin and bolt off. Then you probably have enough leverage to pull the axle out of the transmission. If not, just take the 3 bolts off the strut mount.

You could also do it the way I do when I care about the rubber boots. Do you have an electric impact to get the axle nuts off? You'll need to get at least one off. Then you can remove the sway bar, radius rod (from either the front subframe or the control arm) unbolt the lower control arm from the frame and pull the whole thing out enough to get the axle out. Once you have one axle out, the transmission will slide off the other.

Sorry if I was too thorough :)

-Billy

rover215
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Re: No cherry picker engine removal?

Postby rover215 » March 29th, 2017, 11:18 pm

This is great info, Billy- I'll be bringing my Honda manuals and too many tools. I'm able to lift the EB2 engine right now and that has the intake, carburetor, and exhaust mani in place.I'll take as much as I can fit in my 2000 CR-V. Also, after looking at the pics more closely, it appears the trans and rad are already out of the car (trans is under the rear and the rad is behind the rear seat). That'll make it a lot easier.
Last edited by rover215 on April 8th, 2017, 1:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

EvoCivic
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Re: No cherry picker engine removal?

Postby EvoCivic » March 30th, 2017, 6:27 am

Once the head and all ancillaries are off just reach in and pick up the bottom end. It's not really all that heavy.

steve.ewing@ottawa.ca
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Re: No cherry picker engine removal?

Postby steve.ewing@ottawa.ca » March 30th, 2017, 11:45 am

This is a moot point if the transmission is already out but I'm sure I've taken the transmission out of a 1200 without removing the engine or lower mount. I did pull the axles and was able to twist and turn it and drop it out the bottom. It was a long time ago so all the details aren't clear. Has anyone else done it?

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Re: No cherry picker engine removal?

Postby EvoCivic » March 30th, 2017, 7:52 pm

steve.ewing@ottawa.ca wrote:This is a moot point if the transmission is already out but I'm sure I've taken the transmission out of a 1200 without removing the engine or lower mount. I did pull the axles and was able to twist and turn it and drop it out the bottom. It was a long time ago so all the details aren't clear. Has anyone else done it?

Yes, very easy to pull the box out on its own, assuming it's a manual. Just pull out the driveshafts, unbolt all the bits that need unbolting/disconnecting and slip it out. No need to remove or undo any engine mounts. Half hour job once you get good at it.
With a Hondamatic you need to yank the whole thing out as there isn't enough room to slide the box off the torque converter.

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Re: No cherry picker engine removal?

Postby BillyEno » March 30th, 2017, 9:36 pm

The problem I have always had is separating the engine from the transmission when the lower mount is on. It seems to grab the oil pan. Thus the business with the lower cross member. When I only remove the transmission it's from the bottom, but I do end up pulling the for-aft cross member.
-Billy

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Re: No cherry picker engine removal?

Postby Sami6 » March 31st, 2017, 12:40 am

With an auto if you just unbolt the 6mm bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate, the torque converter comes out with the auto trans and can just be dropped out the bottom. If you undo the control arm bolts, radius rod nuts and sway bar, then turn the steering to the left and lock it, you can pull the right axle far enough out to get it out of the way without removing it. The left axle, just pop it out with a pry bar and leave it in place. It will slip out when you pull the trans. I don't think the trans will come out with the centre mount on as the mount bolts to the transmission and would interfere with the flywheel I think, but I've never tried it. Once the trans is out I've always just let the engine hang without support. It seems to jam on the end mount and the torque rod, but do so at your own risk, probably better to support it.

For future note, the real trick is getting the control arm bolts back in when installing a trans. The bolt will go in the front side of the bushing but not line up with back side and into the threads. Put the bolt in the front until it stops then put a floor jack under the back edge of the control arm and twist the back edge of the arm up. then push and turn the bolt in. Finish tighten the control arm bolt once the car is on the ground to not over twist the bushing.


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