Home / Community / 74civic4x4_Brian R 
The 1974 Civic I converted to a 4x4 is a runner now. Here is a description:1974 Honda Civic Real Time 4 Wheel Drive 1974 Honda Civic Body perimeter welded to shortened 1989 Honda Civic Real Time 4 wheel drive floor pan. D16A6 engine 6 forward speed 1990 transaxle Stage II clutch 16" Motegi rims 3R aftermarket sport seats 1989 dash, gages, Air conditioning (Works well!) 11" Carrado rotors up front, Civic callipers, custom calliper mounts RT wagon front rotors in the rear, gen 2 Prelude callipers, custom calliper mounts The car is a runner as of August 2004 but has a shake which I think I have traced to a bent rim. I started this project in March of 2004. I first drove it in early August 2004. This is my 6th engine and/or drive train conversion. I live in Pollock Pines, CA, at an elevation of 4000 feet. We get a yearly snow accumulation of 4 feet, thus the impetus for this project. I purchased the running Civic with a pretty nice body for $500. I bought the 1989 wagon with a good engine but bad trans axle and significant body damage for $120+ $80 towing + a $75 speeding ticket going to look at it in Nevada. Other expense included $295 for a used trans axle, $80 for a second used trans axle to keep as a spare, $140 for the used set of tires and wheels, $280 for the racing seats new from Pep Boys, $140 for the Kenwood cd player and roughly $100 for timing belt, alternator belt, etc. I have not yet paid anyone to do any work on the car. I have done it all in house, er, garage. God Loves Me! I have been a Christian for over 30 years and felt that my God told me he loves me during this project. If you have not stopped reading this by now I hope you will keep reading to find out how. I shortened the wagon pan approximately 8 inches for this project. I decided on the actual length by lowering the hatch body over the wagon pan which I had cut in half before making the final decision. I did it mostly by what I thought looked good. Then I shortened the drive shaft to fit this pan length. I have had reasonable success shortening drive shafts at home in the past using my lathe, mig welder, shop press for straightening, etc. This particular drive shaft turned out terribly, something like .050 out of true. At a later date I went to the junk yard to get another drive shaft to try again. I was disappointed to find that the 1990 RT wagon I had previously spotted had been crushed. I decided to get a drive shaft from a first gen, solid axle RT wagon as it looked like the flanges would bolt up. It looked like it might be too short. I went home to try it and found that it bolted right in! I do mean right in. The shaft would probably work due to the rubber drive train mounts if it were + 1/8" either way but the length was absolutely perfect as far as I could tell. The first thought that came to mind was that God was showing his love to me by directing me to set the wheelbase to the right length for that shaft. I have not yet used the car for my 100 mile round trip commute but hope to do so this coming week. There are additional photos available to accompany this description. Brian Roth, Pollock Pines, CA 4000' elevation. Building '74 Civic 4wd using floor pan/running gear from 1990 Civic. Current Commuter: '73 Porsche 914 powered by '86 Ford 2.3 turbo, Inter cooler, Roll Cage coolant distribution, 16" Fuchs, etc. It has a 6 speed manual transmission. It has 5 normal gears and a super low or granny gear. It has not been driven off road. I put in a 4WD shifter and took out the wagovan viscous coupler. I drive it in front wheel drive all the time except when I need the traction. I built it for the snow in Pollock Pines, which can be substantial. It does about as well as a Subaru in the snow, which is pretty good. It gets about 28 mpg in town and 31 on the highway. It is a 49 state lean burn motor and seems like it should get better mileage but it does weigh 2450 pounds. It is not showing any CEL codes or light at this time. The battery is mounted in the trunk. It has air conditioning which is factory to the Wagovan. It worked awesome for 10 years but developed a leak in the schrader valve last summer. I put in a new valve, new receiver drier, pulled a vacuum and recharged but it doesn’t get as cold as it used to. In traffic in the heat the AC doesn’t work too well honestly. I installed factory Honda cruise control which works very well. I installed a power window on the passenger side only. You can reach the crank on the driver’s side. It has a 1 1/4 receiver type trailer hitch. The passenger door closes hard. At the very least the latch need adjusting. There is a dent and a tiny rust through hole in the middle of that door. The weather stripping on the car is in pretty good shape but not perfect. I am running an IHI RHB5 turbo. It dumps out the passenger fender well, wraps around the front wheel and exits with a side pipe in front of the rear wheel. This car may have been sold! I just wanted to share this amazing conversion with you.