It's a little bit more involved than that, but all well worth doing as the hood panel works normally, until you wish to remove it, a process that takes seconds, and under a minute putting it back on.Randy wrote: ↑January 25th, 2018, 7:56 amviewtopic.php?t=14311
Did you just cut open the end of the hinge to let it slide off the pins. Wouldn't it bounce more on the open road, as they then to rise up from the fenders.
The air outlets make ideal handles when fitting /removing the panel, I use the ones nearest to the front when lifting it away.
I talk about battery side, not left or right as we have the panel upside down which transposes left and right, as does standing in front of the car, looking at the windscreen. I do not advocate doing what I have done, merely placing it here as what I have done for your interest
1 - Cut washer pipe near hinge and remove the panel and place upside down on a workbench.
2 - Remove front trim - be careful most all have been bolted up for more than 40 years. This is to avoid cutting and damaging it when removing the weld in #3.
3 - Cut or grind the weld off flush to its bracket on the hinge pin on the RIGHT-hand side of each hinge as you look at it upside down. Do this with the hinge assembly closed.
Note cut in front flange,
and dent in inner skin
4 - Cut the hinged part to clear the hinge pin and then slide it off. Part of the front flange will need to be removed or''clearanced'' to allow clearance for panel removal, but done with finesse the trim fits back with no issues.
5 - Prove the fit of the part and fettle the cuts, [edges will be sharp] .
6 - Whilst fettling the hinge pin parts, shorten one hinge pin by 1/3. This means that you can get one pin in first. It makes it a lot easier, if in doubt, try it with 2 equal pins,
8 - Loosely fit the hinge pin plates to the front rail, and slide the hood [hood]panel onto them, fitting the longest one first. An assistant is handy for this, but I manage on my own. 9 - Open and close the panel, this will align the pins. Then tighten them up. Check the catch is happy to release. Me? I click the panel shut and the tighten the bolts with it closed after having checked panel clearances.
10 - Open the panel and carefully slide it off, if all the clearances are correct, it should slide off towards the battery.
11 - Fit an 'R' clip to secure if you wish, but I never have as the hinge assembly when closed is trapped in position by the folded part of the hinge, they effectively form a male/female relationship.
12 - Note that it will work with the hinge cut either side, BUT the panel has a natural desire to slide off to the opposite side from the battery especially when using the stay with oiled hinges [it's the angle of the strut turning the support pressure into a side thrust, so cutting it as I suggest means that it works normally without fear of it rocking off in the wind [my first one did as I cut it opposite to what I have suggested]. I guess the ''R'' clip would have stopped this, but mistakes do get made when making progress!
I have a video of myself opening the hood, connecting the washer line, closing the hood. I then opened the hood, slid it sideways and removed it. I then step away from the car, return, fit the hood and washer line and finish. Time? 1 minute and 12 seconds, and all done in a lisurely manner.
it really is worthwhile.
And those blxxdy JDM mirrors could fit without being a blasted nuisance. Don't they just get in the way when working under the hood?
We always thought so, and converted to door mirrors, so many fenders got bent by owners reaching in to check their oil. We were always told to check it every day back in the 1960's.
