By christos (203.56.239.117) on Thursday, February 08, 2001 - 03:52 pm:

my 75 civic keeps cutting out. I have checked points, coil, condensor,plugs, fuel cut-off solenoid, leads, but still it boggs down and dies. If I wait a while it starts up again just fine but then boggs down after driving a few hundred metres or so if I'm lucky. When it does run it run great. I can't work it out, any ideas anyone?

By ROotUS (203.34.130.57) on Thursday, February 08, 2001 - 09:42 pm:

what sort of fuel pump? my electronic one crapped itself and did similar things...
sounds like petrol probs to me...
but thas just my opinion.

By Frank Briskie (24.4.254.71) on Friday, February 09, 2001 - 05:49 pm:

Considering the time of year, I would bet anything you have some water in the tank. I've had a 77 CVCC for 10 years, and every winter I get water in the gas (warm during the day/cold at night...condensation). The car will just run like total crap....backfire even. Happily, the fix is cheap and simple...HEET. It's usually available at Walmart. If you have to, a bottle of the STP Gas Treament is OK, but HEET (in a yellow bottle) is specifically designed for removing water. It should cost you about $1, and it will work in a few minutes.

By christos (203.56.239.115) on Friday, February 09, 2001 - 09:53 pm:

I live in Adelaide, South Australia. The past month's average temperature has been around 37 degrees Celsius so that pretty much rules out water in the tank as the cause of the problem but thanks anyway. I got another carby today but have't fit it yet, I hope that solves it.

By christos (203.56.239.113) on Saturday, February 10, 2001 - 02:15 am:

Does anyone know what the little thing screwed to the firewall near the coil is and does? It's about 30mm x 25mm and has 5 u-shaped grooves along its top. It has a male and a female spade connector on it's bottom side where wires go to the coil and to a black and white wire(I think). It feels like its some sort of alloy and is painted black.

By christos (203.56.239.116) on Saturday, February 10, 2001 - 02:43 pm:

whatever it is it was causing the cut-out/bogging of the engine. I'm just curious to know what it does.

By jon (24.69.10.3) on Saturday, February 10, 2001 - 10:27 pm:

sounds like the ballast resistor it lowers the voltage going to the coil from 12 volts to like 9.6 volts or something

By errol (152.163.207.208) on Saturday, February 10, 2001 - 10:28 pm:

Sounds like the 'balast resister' went bad. It keeps the voltage to the coil to a certain rating. It's likley that you coil was overheating (from too much voltage) and after it would cool it would run again. Check your points and condenserand coil are good and 'sparky'

By christos (203.56.239.116) on Sunday, February 11, 2001 - 04:38 am:

thanks, yeah that's what was happening- it would run well until it got too hot then cut out until it cooled off a little. It runs great now, I'm so releived.

By A.W. (165.247.184.120) on Monday, February 12, 2001 - 08:03 pm:

On that resistor balast. I have an accell ingnition that i am installing. can i take out the balast resistor if am using an aftermarket coil? Also I am having a similiar problem with my 81 1300. I tried that HEET stuff and that didnt help. The thing about my car is that in only cuts off and ideals like poo i when i am coming to a stop. Dosnt mater how long the car has been rining or any thing. Just ideals down and cuts off or it has also cut off when i let the RPM's fall al thr way down when i chang gears . Like tonight i was pulling in the drive down shifted into second let out the clutch a little to slow the car pushed in the clutch and the brake and kaput. off it whent. PLEASE HELP.

A.W.

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Monday, February 12, 2001 - 09:34 pm:

AW.

Make sure your fuel cutoff solenoid is working or connected. This shuts off fuel flow to your idle circuit. Otherwise you have blocked jets or poorly adjusted mixture but I am pretty sure it is a fuel solenoid shutoff problem.

By Paul Krummenacker (208.140.33.250) on Tuesday, February 13, 2001 - 02:42 pm:

Charles, sounds like the problem I was having with my '81 Accord. It turned out to be one of the fuel cutoff solenoids that wasn't working anymore. car would idle so long as I keep hitting the pedal, but it wouldn't idle. It was on the left hand side (as you sit in the car) of the carb. I just took it off and with my cutoff tool, just zapped off the little plunger that is supposed to retract when there is +12v applied to it.

No more stalling problems and the car runs just the same.

By A.W. (165.247.182.221) on Tuesday, February 13, 2001 - 07:46 pm:

Well that sound peachy but i am not so sure of that. Get this. I got the car Monday. When i picked up the car it wasnt doing it. well after driving about a mile or two it started. It had about 3/4 tank of gas. Well i have a long comute to work so i needed to get gas today. Now with a full tank it is doing fine. My car is possessed. Also the previous owner said it was siting for a while so could it have been bad gas? I am going to check the cut off solenoids tomarrow and i'll get back to you.
Once again thanks so much for the help and as always Godspeed,
A.W.

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Tuesday, February 13, 2001 - 09:12 pm:

Stick about 1L of metho in the tank. It may have had water in the tank and gotten into the fuel bowl. If it had been sitting then it may have caused condensation in the tank. Sometimes the solenoids just stick as well so it may be an intermitant problen.

By A.W. (165.247.168.252) on Wednesday, February 14, 2001 - 02:48 pm:

Well I have tried water remoel stuff to reduce the water in the tank, I have checked the fuel cut of solenoids, and i have replaced the ignition, plugs, and wires. I found that the "No. 1 controll box was unpluged so i pluged it back in and it seemed to be running fine. Well I guess i got my hopes up because while sitting in traffic it cut off on me again. It seems that when the engine temp is high not hot just almost in the middle of the gauge it seems to run fine. But it is cold here this time of the year so when the engine temp drops it cuts off again. but again its only at idel. I need help bad. I fear I am not going to have a starter at the end of the week i have to start it so often. I live in a high traffic city. Thanks again to all those that are trying to help.
Godspeed
A.W>

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Wednesday, February 14, 2001 - 04:34 pm:

Try some carb cleaner or carbon remover down the cvcc port in the carb. Does it have an auto choke? Has the thermostat been removed? It should run on the half mark the whole time once up to temp.

By A.W. (165.247.183.22) on Wednesday, February 14, 2001 - 04:45 pm:

Which port is the cvcc port and do i have to remove the carb? Yes it does have an auto choke. Which thermostat do you meen? Dose not look as if any thing has ever been removed. I have a Haynes manual and that is it. So tell me what you can and i will use the book as a refrance to where things are. I dont have time or the cask to blow on the factory service manual.
Thanks again guys and Godspeed,
A.W.

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Wednesday, February 14, 2001 - 09:18 pm:

Thermostat is the thing that controls engine temp. It is under a thermostat housing. On the EJ this is at the end of the head where the top radiator hose enters the block.

The cvcc port is the little tiny one at the front of the carb (toward the front of the car). You can open the throttle right up stick a tube in and fill it with some sort of muckout (the port). Remove the plugs leave it sit a long time even overnight. Half way through turn the crankshaft 180 degrees and refill will muckout. Then turn the engine over in the morning with the starter (without the plugs in) until it stops squirting out vapour. Refit your plugs and give the old girl a good run (it may be a bit rough to start with). If it is still rough while the car is running (rev it up and dribble more muck out down the throat (spray is best)) while the car is running.

When you say you checked the fuel solenoids what did you do? Did you apply 12V to them while the car was turned off and heard them click? Did you then check to make sure there is 12V in the feed line once the ignition is turned on?

Sometimes the wires can be mixed up and one wire which connects to a solenoid to allow full advance is temperature dependant (ie it won't supply 12 V until the car is above operating temp). Make sure this wire isn't connected to one of your fuel solenoids as this would mean the fuel solenoid would only operate when your engine was above the predetermined operating temp (sort of what you describe).

By A.W. (165.247.183.142) on Wednesday, February 14, 2001 - 09:31 pm:

Both my solenoids operate on one wire signaled by the ignition. First i unpluged on of them and cut the key to ign. the one clicked. then i unplugged that one and plugged in the other and turned the key to ign. it clicked. then i plugged them both back and they both clicked. Let me make sure i got this right. Take off the air cleaner housing. I have 3 ports and three throttle controlled "flaps", we call them buterflies, and when i open the throttle spray a whole bunch of cleaner in the one farthest towards the front of the car? Got it. Now, what in the world is muckout? Is that like any carb cleaner or is it something special?
Thanks again Charles my boy and Godspeed,
A.W.

By errol (205.188.198.31) on Wednesday, February 14, 2001 - 09:54 pm:

a.w. Is your fuel mileage ok, If it isn't and the plugs are fouling it might be a little diaphram that is only accessable if you take off the carb. If the diaphram starts to tear from wear, it will suck fuel right down one of the venturi ports. I've had about 6 cars that did this. It's about mid way from front to back and on the drivers side. Has 3-screws and it's about $7.00 (dealer item only) And then take some carb cleaner with a 'jet nozel' and spray 'small' amounts around the vacume lines while the car is running. Now be smart about this so we don't have to call you AW-POOOF! If it boggs or revs look in that area for a vacume leak. Check lines 3 and 4 that go to the very back on the carb near the base (air cleaner has to come off) And while you have it off look to see if one of the lines might have been 'pinched' between the bottom of the air cleaner and the 'metal lines' that attach to the bottome of it.....aaahh i love hondas.....

By A.W. (165.247.191.247) on Thursday, February 15, 2001 - 06:56 pm:

I just put my first tank of gas in it Tuesday night. I have gotten about, ruff guess my trip meter is broken, about 150+- miles out of a little less then a half of tank. I am not sure if that is good or not. Ny jet nozel you are talking about that red tube that comes with the can. So i just spry lightly at points were the vacum line go into the carb? Also on the 81 1300 is the fuel pump supposed to make a constant "tic" tic" noise? because right now mine makes a very intermitant thump noise. It sounds kinda like a bubble or like a water drop into a pale of water. Would my fuel pump have any thing to do with ideal?
Thanks Errol i will test that out sometime. work sucks so i have to drive it as is untill Sunday. Thanks agaim and Godspeed,
A.W.

By errol (152.163.204.198) on Sunday, February 18, 2001 - 09:52 pm:

Yes that tube is correct. The 'thump' might be varnish that has built up in the pumping diaphrams, and it's sticking alittle. Time considering, use some carb/choke cleaner like Berryman's or something that you pour in your tank and see what that does and a High octaine fuel wouldn't hurt.

By A.W. (24.25.92.78) on Monday, February 19, 2001 - 07:04 pm:

thanks errol. i tried spraying the carb cleaner on the vacuum line and nothing happened. But get this, i found a vacum line coming from the control box that was not connected, WEELLL here came more problems. I connected the line to the throttle opener diaphram. Well this didnt change the ideal any but when i gave it a little gas the diaphram opend the throttle wide open so i had to take it off again. Could this be a bad diaphram or the solenoid in the control box. when i put my finger over the end of the line and rev the engine vacuum builds up gradually and then goes away when i let if the gas.Could one of these valves in the control box be bad and is it also possable that vacuum lines could be wrong? I am not worried about time any more so what else may be up with the gas tank? One more thing, could the codensation chamber be bad?
Thanks again and Godspeed,
A.W.

By Ed (24.43.71.154) on Monday, February 19, 2001 - 09:51 pm:

geez... I think we are all learning from this one!!!!

By errol (152.163.197.68) on Tuesday, February 20, 2001 - 08:22 am:

The previous owner didn't have 'tufts' of hair missing from the sides of his head did he???

Did that vacume line have any 'numbers' on it? Check the vacume routing map on the under side of your hood. (unless it's a neew hood or may be peeled off) and just take time and chase them down to where they're supposed to go. This is where you find that someone has had a 'better idea' of how honda 'should've put those things'

Did you ever check your sparkplugs of what they looked like?

By A.W. (165.247.176.111) on Tuesday, February 20, 2001 - 06:43 pm:

I have not checked the spark plugs yet? To be honest i am not sure what a fule foweled plug looks like. Yes the line has a number on it but i cant tell if it is a 6 or a 9. On the routing map it says 6 goes to the throttle opener diaphram and that is were i put it. Thats when the engine revs like crazy. The routing map kinda has me confused. At the top of the controll box is what looks like a little gun turret on a tank, i think it is like a filter or something, with a line coming off of it seperate from all the lines that come out of the box. Now on the map that line is on top but all the other lines are showen oppisate of what they are. Like the #6 line goes to the right part of the carb but it comes out as the last hose but in the map it shows #6 coming out of the line up at the top, on the side. Is it possable that the lines got fliped some how? But then it seems to me that the car wouldn't run well at all and not just ideal. Some one please HELP!!! Do you think if i was to go threw the controll box and re-do the lines exactly like the map shows, i would be good? What i guess i need to know is, with the hood up and looking at the routing map, from top to bottom shouldn't all the lines on the map match the control box, up to down?
Thanks you guys and yes Ed this has been an experiance.
Godspeed,
A.W.

...and think , i want to turbo this thing. But at least i wont have that stupid carb any mor. NO CARB, 300 LESS VACUUM LINES!!! YEAAA!!