By david (208.130.246.54) on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 07:57 pm:

i am , right now, in the middle of rebuilding my stock hitachi carb(eb1,'73). it is seeming quite overwhelming. i took apart every thing and have wire brushed and cleaned everything. it looks like my carb was completely rebuilt not too long ago, but i am replacing everything that came in the rebuild kit(which wasn't much). the exploded diagram that came with the rebuild kit is kind of confusing. does anyone have any advice or tips while i rebuild? i want to finish by tomarrow, if not sooner.
the float valve thingy is the only think "inside" the carb that needs to be adjusted before i put it back together, right?
i really don't want to have to pull this thing back apart.
i definatly am learning about alot about my carb, which is a very good thing.

By david (208.130.240.124) on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 08:32 pm:

also, my rebuild kit came with two of each gasket. i assumed for back ups. for the lower one, though, there's one thin one and one thick one. both gaskets on the carb were the thin ones. what is the thich(lower) one for? i thought mabey it went in between the carb and the manifold, but the holes don't seem to match up.
thanks for any help, what-so-ever,

david

By david (208.130.240.7) on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 09:52 pm:

i'm trying to get the float valve correctly adjusted. i'm going by what the rebuild kit instructions say and it seems odd to me that the float valve would of been as brutally out of adjustment as it looks. the sheet says that, looking at it vertically the distance between the gasket and the bottom of the float should be 11.10 MM, and also looking at it vertically, when you pull the float up to where it stops, the distance between the metal lip and the float needle thingy should be between 1.30MM and 1.50MM. well i've had to push the last things adjuster back quite alot to get it to where it says its sopposed to be. anyone have any clues on why this may be. was it just brutally out of adjustment or what?

again thank you for your time,
david

p.s.- the only manual that i have is the clymer and that is no help at all.

By david (208.130.247.233) on Tuesday, February 27, 2001 - 03:55 am:

sorry, i know no ones answered, but i have something more to add... (i did post this thread kinda late)

theres a ball bearing(ball- pump intake check) that i think is missing, wheather it was never there or it got lost while i have had it apart, i don't know, but it's gone and i was wondering if that ball is just loose at the bottom(well, into the little groove)of the pump assy. tube or if it is pressed or held in(by a seal or such).
(good lord!, run-on sentence)

if it was loose, like i suspect, then i will go track one down tomarrow along with a spring thats missing or i lost or something...

after spending an evening with my carb, i'm alot more comfortable with it than at first. i just hope my efforts pay off. the strong gas smell gets kind of on my nerves, though, not to mention the ever so slight headache it gives you. which sucks, because it makes it a little harder to concentrate.

good febuary end,
david

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Tuesday, February 27, 2001 - 02:21 pm:

Follow the rebuild instructions, they should be right. One tip though, make sure you check the acc. pump diaphragm and the small plate that holds it. A lot of the plates warp through some cause and even with good diaphragms they will leak fuel out. You have to place the cover on a flat piece of something and sand it down so it is flat. Then refit and hopefully your fuel smell will go away.

When you adjust your float valve, think of it logically if your not 100% sure the instructions are correct. Remember you want the needle and seat to close before the level of the fuel rises over the top gasket in the fuel bowl. So blow down the fuel supply line and manually lift the float to see where the fuel supply to the bowl shuts off. Depending on the carb, there is sometimes a little window in the side. You want the fuel level to usually sit midway up the window.

By david (208.130.246.115) on Tuesday, February 27, 2001 - 07:16 pm:

thanks for the info charles, i think i have it under control. one little problem. the spring that holds up the secondary valve ball(which i have), is missing and no one seems to be any help in finding it. i have gone to 6 0r 7 places in town(including honda). i am also missing the ball bearing that goes beneath the pump assy. spring. it is all right to just go to a motor cyle shop and match one to the secondary feul valve ball?
i'm really sorry about all these questions, i just want to get this right.

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Tuesday, February 27, 2001 - 09:06 pm:

Go grab another S/h carb and use the bits out of that or match it up at a shop. As long as you are sure there is supposed to be a bit in there. It may have been left out on the last rebuild if you can't find it.

By david (208.130.247.75) on Tuesday, February 27, 2001 - 11:26 pm:

i thought of that, but its on the exploded veiw and theres a ball bearing just floating around in there. mabey the hesitation problem i was having was that spring not being there. i'm not sure about the pump spring ball either.
is s/h a brand of carb? i went to a carburator shop and the guy had no clue.
i emailed a bunch of carb sites and hondaautomotiveparts.com.
we'll see, thanks for the help. other than the spring, the rest should be a snap.

By Adrian (Civicguru) (203.42.97.227) on Wednesday, February 28, 2001 - 12:36 am:

s/h = second hand .

By david (208.130.247.2) on Wednesday, February 28, 2001 - 01:53 pm:

so much damn trouble for a stupid little spring...

does anyone have a thrashed stock carb(hitachi dcg-306) that has this spring?

By david (208.130.240.16) on Wednesday, February 28, 2001 - 05:15 pm:

i talked to a guy at a shop today in washington state that has alot of experience with old hondas. i guess he's really into the old n600's. he had a spare carb with the spring i'm looking for and i guess its about the same size as a pen spring. although pen springs are longer and a bit stiffer. he told me to cut it down to 1/2 in. and strech it to 3/4 in., which is the length of the afore mention valve ball spring. i am so releived. i hope this works. eventually i want to find the real spring, though. also, i was talking to the guy and he has a set of dual keihens and an RS header. the carbs need to be rebuilt and have no air filter. he wants $150 for them. think thats steep? where can i find rebuild kits? he wants $75 for the header. i think thats fair. those are definatley mine.

By Adrian (Civicguru) (203.42.97.227) on Wednesday, February 28, 2001 - 06:47 pm:

$75 (I assume you're talking US$) seems pretty reasonable for an RS exhaust manifold if it's in decent nick. $150 seems to be about the going rate for some twins in reasonable condition, maybe a bit less for one without the filter cover. I assume they have a manifold (totally useless without one). Rebuild kits are easy, just go to a bike shop and get kits for GL1000 carbs. Air filter is no problem, as long as it's only the top cover that's missing. If they are missing the filter base, offer $50 as it's very important to have that bit (has the fuel rail in it) and is a pain to make something to do the job. If only the top cover missing, just get a foam filter that fits and make an aluminium plate to cover it.

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Wednesday, February 28, 2001 - 09:23 pm:

Some RS carbs came with a weird ram pod arrangement and no filter base or in built fuel rail as such. If they are these they work very well and you can just put a couple of foam filter socks on the ramtubes.

By tedshred (63.224.195.169) on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 10:06 am:

David, good score on the header. Hard to find at that price unless you know someone (Don).