Subtopic	Posts		Updated
	Dellorto	4		03/18 09:43pm

By Jacob (24.12.161.208) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 11:14 am:

We recently came into a 1976 Honda Civic something. We don't know if it's a CVCC or not. We don't know what motor it has... or anything really.

The VIN is SBC4044791. Is there a way to tell what the car has in it from this info.

The car is 100% stock.

By david (208.130.246.76) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 02:18 pm:

firstly, what does the valve cover say? if it says CVCC its a CVCC, if just honda then its not.
there should be a plate on the engine with some letters and numbers. the first 3 characters will be 2 letters and a number. check to see what these are. post what you find.
also what scripts you have on your car will help.

By quikrick (63.204.16.66) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 03:03 pm:

Take a peek under the hood. If you see the exhaust manifold on the front of the motor, between the bumper and the motor and the distributor is on the driver side (US) of the motor then you have a 1200.
If the exhaust manifold is under the intake manifold on the firewall side of the motor and the distributor is on the passenger side (US) then you have a CVCC 1500.
Also like David said, look for badges, those chrome shiny decorative things that are usually placed on the fenders and rear of the car that will say CVCC or 1200.

By quikrick (63.204.16.66) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 03:17 pm:

I just checked my Smart Book. The chassis number that you show above indicates a 1976 1200 hatch back.

By david (208.130.246.42) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 03:26 pm:

1200's are better, too. be thankful.

By Jacob (24.12.161.208) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 03:33 pm:

So, 1200 hatch back= not CVCC. Honda Valve cover, Rotor on Driver's side (US), exhaust at front, intake at rear. Yep, those all fit.

Now that we've established that it's a 1200. How do I make a 1300 Stoker. Don't tell me to search for threads because I can't find one that says "this is what needs to be done to make a 1300 stroker." Or anything even close to that. There are threads discussing more horsepower out of a stroker or, to stroke or not to stroke (:-)). But nothing that tells specific parts, and how to do it.

Thanks for all your help already guys.

By quikrick (63.204.16.66) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 03:57 pm:

Go to:
http://www.geocities.com/drzoom_ca/civichowto.htm

By Jacob (24.12.161.208) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 06:48 pm:

Thanks

By Jacob (24.12.161.208) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 09:01 pm:

Hey guys,

How can I tell which motor I have ie. EB1, EB2, EB3...etc. Will this be on the plate on the motor mentioned by david?

Sweet site quikrick.

Thanks guys

By Jacob (24.12.161.208) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 09:09 pm:

We have success, the plate on motor says EB2. Thanks for the info guys.

By david (208.130.245.158) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 09:14 pm:

jacob, yes it will. the plate is acually on the peice of sheet metal that the hood is attached to.

then again, it could have a different engine in it that just looks stock. it should be stamped on the engine somewhere, but i don't know where.
quikrick???

By david (208.130.245.158) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 09:19 pm:

sorry, started to write my post before you had posted your last message.

By Jacob (24.12.161.208) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 09:54 pm:

Are there any benefits that the EB2 has over any of the other blocks

By david (208.130.240.48) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 10:03 pm:

i think you can put an eb3 head on for more power. the eb2 is 1239cc and the eb1 is 1169cc. which makes the eb2 a better block for the 1300 stoker crank you were talking about.

By Jacob (24.12.161.208) on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 11:17 pm:

Should I go with the EB3 head, the 1300 crank and rods, goldwing pistons, and a dual carb setup? We're autocrossing it, so we want a good low end, and a pretty good high end.

Thanks for all the info guys.

By Charles R. (64.170.157.191) on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 07:43 pm:

Add a good cam, throw in a free flowing exhaust and you will have a very stout engine.
Of course, those mods will bump you up to "D MOD" in SCCA solo2.

By Jacob (24.12.161.208) on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 11:47 pm:

SCCA solo2?? "D MOD". Whatever you're talking about, I'd like more information.

Thanks

By Charles R. (64.170.157.251) on Sunday, March 18, 2001 - 10:45 pm:

SCCA is the major sanctioning body in the U.S. for amateur racing. "Solo2" is the official name for autocrossing. "Solo1" is for "on track" or hillclimb type events. "Club racing" is for amateur and semi-professional "wheel-to-wheel" racing. Pretty much, all amateur racing in America follows the rules that the SCCA puts out. There are usually local variations. For the most part though, everybody tends to follow the national guidelines
Another sanctioning body I'm involved with is NASA. No, it's not the space agency. It stands for "Northern Auto Sports Association". To check out these guys, go to www.nasaproracing.com

I don't know the SCCA page URL.

By Charles R. (64.170.157.251) on Sunday, March 18, 2001 - 11:44 pm:

Oh yeah,
To make sure you are racing against cars that have similar performace to yours, SCCA classes all cars sold in the US. Beyond that, there are also four levels of preparation as well.

STOCK classes A through H.
Beside the air filter, the only thing you can do to your car is change shock/struts and put on street legal, race compound tires. "A stock/AS" has cars like BMW M3's. "F stock/FS" is home to the "pony" cars, Mustangs and Camaro's. Our lowly Civics are in H stock/HS. There is a "Super Stock/SS" class for cars like the '93+ RX7 and the newer Vettes.

STREET PREPARED classes A-F(?)
You get to lower the cars, change the size of the wheels and minor lightening. You also get to use any intake setup and any exhaust system and even lighten the flywheel. BUT! There are no internal engine mods allowed! We're classed as DSP(D Street Prepared) along with the 510's. Some cars have so much capability they are classed as Street Prepared even though they are stock, the Dodge Viper is classed ASP.

PREPARED A-I don't know.
Now you can GUT! the inside of your car. You can do internal engine mods, BUT. There are minimum weights (our Civics=1600lbs) and restrictions on carburation and valve sizes. I believe we're EP.

MODIFIED A-D
King of the hill here is A MOD. The rules? one sentence;

Vehicles with at least a 72in wheelbase and weighing 700lbs or more.

Current top-of-class? 800+hp,1000cc, two stroke snowmobile engine, constant velocity tranny(no shifting), open wheel, wings up the WAZOO, monsters.

Thankfully, we're in D MOD. Production cars under 2.0liters. Almost anything goes but there is a minimum weight of 1000lbs(1400lbs if you modify the floorpan)and it still has to look (kind of) like the car it's based on. You also can't move the engine to the rear of the car. The kings in DM are ultra built Lotus Super Sevens and Elans.

This is a REALLY condensed version of the rules so don't sue me if there are some slight errors.

Check out the web sites for more current info.