By david (208.130.245.14) on Sunday, March 18, 2001 - 07:29 pm:

i am in the middle of installing a 28/30 dgv weber on my eb1 1200. i think i've figured everything out, but there are a couple of things that i am a little unsure about. first off, what do i do with the fuel cutoff valve that went in the stocker. ther's no place on the weber it will fit. do i have to get one that for the weber? do i even need it?

secondly, i'm pretty sure about the vacumn lines, but i wanna run it by someone.
i've got the top tube from my vacumn advance going to the one and only vacumn tube on the weber. i have the lower tube on the vacumn advance blocked off. i have the top tube on the manifold blocked off and the bottom tube going to the other tube coming from the charcoal canister.

thirdly, what should i do about the hot air hose(about 12" long and 2-1/2" wide)? should i just leave it sitting there or can i block it off.

thank you for any help,
david

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Sunday, March 18, 2001 - 09:01 pm:

Hi Dave,

You can get rid of the hot air hose and it's sheild.

Your vacuum advance canister should have both tubes connected to ported vacuum, (ie after the throttle). The charcoal canister should go pre-throttle, usually there is a little port right near the throttle plate (probably the one you have the vacuum advance hooked up to).

Most carbs don't need the fuel shut off solenoid. Just unplug it and pop it in the bin with the rest of the rubbish (or keep it if your car has to pass some sort of regular testing).

By david (208.130.245.5) on Sunday, March 18, 2001 - 09:29 pm:

charles, i need some more explaining... youre saying that i need to put a tube from the charcoal canister to the tube on the weber that i now have my vacumn advance going to? what do you mean by before and after throttle? what did you mean by ported vacumn? do i have to buy another vacumn canister for my vacumn advance?

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Monday, March 19, 2001 - 03:12 pm:

Hi David,

You said you have a dual chamber vacuum advance unit. We didn't get them in our early engines (EBs etc) but they were present on the later motors (emission regulation). One diaphragm is usually ported (ie goes to the vacuum found in the intake manifold or ports). The other usually leads to a solenoid, the other end goes back to ported vacuum again. This solenoid controlled one is turned off when the engine is cold (retarded ignition makes an engine produce less emissions when cold). So basically both of the tubes on your vacuum canister can go to ported (or after throttle) vacuum.

The tube on your actual carb, does it suck a strong vacuum at idle? When you pull it off while the car is running does the engine increase revs markedly? If so this is ported vacuum (ie the tube leads to after the throttle). If it only picks up idle speed a little bit or not at all then try to rev the car a little with your finger over the tube, you should feel a bit of vacuum as you open the throttle, if that is what you have then whack your charcoal cansiter hose on that (the one with the one way valve).

By david (206.98.121.139) on Monday, March 19, 2001 - 05:10 pm:

charles, i can't get the car running, so i can't check the tube on the weber.
what solenoid are you talking about? is that the brass thing with 2 tubes sticking out that is screwed into the intake manifold? if not, what is that?

By david (208.130.245.246) on Monday, March 19, 2001 - 11:12 pm:

i finally got the car to turn over, but it it backfires thru the carb and makes this low pitched gurgle sound, then dies. pumping the throttle doesn't seem to affect it much. also the throttle doesn't want to return all the way on its own.

please, i need some help on this. i need the car for work(pizza delivery)and this carb shit is wearing me out. any help would be wonderful. i live in portland, OR, in case there is anyone around here that knows these carbs. you can cover more on the phone. email is nooneon@hotmail.com

By anonymous (63.224.195.169) on Tuesday, March 20, 2001 - 01:09 pm:

That backfiring sounds like timing. Did you remove the dizzy? As for the return of the throttle, is there something pinching the line? Is the throttle mechanism sticky?

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Tuesday, March 20, 2001 - 01:56 pm:

If you didn't have the vacuum lines hooked up to your vacuum advance properly before you will now suddenly have a whole bunch of advance. Try blocking both tubes for now to get it running then loosen the distributer and retard the timing while the car is running and hook up your vacuum hoses. Grab a timing light of someone or go out and buy one and make sure timing is now AOK with both vacuum hoses hooked up.
Sometimes the throttle blade is not centralised, you may have to undo the screws holding the butterfly, let it seat properly and then retighten the screws. Unlikely it would be like this from the factory, you may just have your accellerator cable to tight).

Sounds like you are close.

By david (206.98.121.154) on Tuesday, March 20, 2001 - 03:51 pm:

it idles now, but fluctuates in speed by a very noticeable amount(1000+/-). it doesn't die, but it still does that pop usually on the lower part of the speed fluctuation.
also is there a point in turning the mixture screw that when you pump the throttle no gas sounld squirt into the carb? if so, mine doesn't have that point. i turned it all the way in and almost took the thing out and there was still a small stream of gas that squirted out when i hit the throttle. the amount did change though. more when it was all the way in and less when it was all the way out.
i'll keep posting....

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Tuesday, March 20, 2001 - 04:59 pm:

Fuel will always pump out when you open the throttle. The throttle circuit is separate from the idle circuit.

With the mixture screw I am not sure if it is an air or fuel bleed (assume air bleed). A rule of thumb for all factory setups is to screw the idle screw right in and then back off 2.5 full turns. Set idle speed at around 1200rpms (assuming your timing is right) and then adjust the mixture screw until the engine is running as quick as possible, readjust the idle speed to 1200rpm and try again. Then drop the idle speed back down to 750 and try to undo the idle mixture screw a little more. If you can get another 1/2 a turn or so out of it without the engine nocicably changing picthc speed or smoothness you should be about right with your idle mixture. Take it to a shop and get a 4 gas analyser stuck up it's bum to check and make fine adjustments accordingly (more for emmission control).

Remember the mixture screw only affects the idle mixture and will not affect the main jets.

By david (208.130.246.95) on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 10:33 am:

ok, a couple vacumn tube questions.
i have the top tube from the vacumn advance going to the single and only tube on the weber. this tube has a very strong suck. what should i do about the bottom tube on the vacumn advance, and the two tubes on the intake manifold directly beneath the carb?
also whats up that little brass looking thing that sticks out the intake manifold on the drivers side? the one with the two tubes?
i think i asked these questions before. sorry for repeating any questions.
david

By Todd (63.52.4.19) on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 04:53 pm:

David,
Get a newer vacuum advance mechanism that uses only one vacuum port. As for the other tubes on the baseplate and the manifold, block them off.
What kind of breather will you use?

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 05:01 pm:

Just run the other vacuum advance tube to any of the other tubes on the manifold (providing they give a strong suck at idle. Block the rest off as todd said. If there are any ports on the carb of airfilter that have no strong vacuum at idle hook in your evap canister in here.

By david (208.130.246.17) on Tuesday, March 27, 2001 - 08:39 am:

todd, are you talking about the valve cover breather?
charles, if there are not any ports on the carb or air filter that don't have a strong vacumn, what do i do with the open tube on the char. can?

By david (208.130.240.18) on Tuesday, March 27, 2001 - 04:33 pm:

i was told that the accelerator pump on my weber sticks. how do i know this to be true what would the symtoms be? right now my car is doing this hard hestation thing that you can feel through the entire car. its very unsettleing, but i have to delver pizzas that way. i really hope all this isn't hurting my engine to much.

By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Tuesday, March 27, 2001 - 06:38 pm:

You can vent the charcoal cansiter to air but it is an emmision control device and as such should be plumbed back. If you drill a hole through whatever filter base plate you may have, close to the carb throat as possible and weld on a small tube. Push it on there. It is one emmision control device that will not have you losing any power, just stops hydrocarbons going straight into the atmosphere.

At what point do you get a hard hesitation, when you first floor it, after you have floored it?

By david (208.130.246.116) on Wednesday, March 28, 2001 - 12:51 am:

the hard hesitation is all the time unless i really floor it and even then, but less. it feels like my front end is buckling or something. my torque rod is shot and my engine does vibrate quite a bit. i'm going to order the moog one from autopartsgiant.com tomarrow. i went to a big chain parts store and all they could get was this fancy shock type torque rod for $191!!

By John S. (216.89.129.86) on Friday, March 30, 2001 - 01:18 am:

Those do not work...they allow too much movement...I have one in a box right now, that I removed from one of my cars, after fixing the exhaust pipe twice in a short period. I've used the adjustable rod portion, and the slightly larger front bushing off of a '79-81 1751 Accord strut rod, welded to the rear (firewall side) part of the stock 1200 strut.