Idle Speed

First Generation Civic Discussion Board: First Generation Civic Discussion Board: Idle Speed
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Squeal/growl in EB1 motor  1   02/15 03:04am


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Doug (166.102.40.20) on Saturday, March 24, 2001 - 09:18 am:

I have a '78 civic EB 1200, Keihin carb. I am having trouble getting it to idle. This has been an ongoing problem. The only way I've been able to keep it running somewhat is by manipulating the choke. Once out of idle it seems to run fine. I have cleaned out the carb bowl and whatever jets were accessible by removing the air horn. The mixture screw is set at about 2 1/2 turns out. The carb was replaced about one year ago with a rebuilt one. It was not idling properly at that time either. The timing at this time is advanced due to the high speed idle. Again by using the choke I can compensate for the idle speed. Any suggestions Please!!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Tsuyoshi (210.159.218.56) on Sunday, March 25, 2001 - 05:28 am:

How is throttle stop screw? And how is carb balance(throttle butterfly synchronization)?
Standard mixture screw position is 1 1/2 turns out. If you need not only the screw more turns out but also choke to keep idle, It seems
like mixture is too lean.
Float level may too low.
You might want to check air leak(Air cleaner base plate,rubber insurater,and vacume advancer on distributor)
Keihin CV( means Constant Vacume) carb has vacume piston with jet needle. In idle, vacume piston's correct position is bottom side. Sometimes the piston is stick in upper side. So mixture is too lean below 3000 rpm.
Stock RS Ignition timing is 5 degrees BTDC, and add 12 digrees by vacume advance.

Tsuyoshi

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Doug (166.102.101.78) on Sunday, March 25, 2001 - 07:50 am:

Hi Tsuyoshi, Thanks for your reply. Since posting last time I have gone back to check the internal timming and found it to be off by one tooth. I suspect this would affect my idle speed. As hard as I've tried I cannot get the teeth on the belt to align with the teeth on the camshaft pully. Crankshaft is at TDC. The camshaft pully marks are aligned with the cylinder head and the belt tensioner is loose. When I do get the belt on, the crankshaft has a tendancy to turn ATDC. I purchased the camshaft from Honda about one year ago along with a new timing belt. I believe I may have a miskeyed camshaft to pully or a bad timing belt. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Has anyone out there run into a camshaft that was miskeyed? Thanks.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Todd (63.52.16.220) on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 04:35 am:

Hey Doug,
All the 1200 cam pulleys don't line up just right. You want the crank mark dead on, then align the cam pully so that the front mark (the one on the left if you're looking straight at it from the side of the car) is below the surface of the head. This will also make the rear (right) mark sit above the head surface. Make sure to readjust your distriburtor after you move the belt or it will be off also.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By ROotUS (203.34.130.89) on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 05:09 am:

i had alot of idle probs... and i found that a few bolts were loose on carb.... fixed (though completely blown up now...)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Doug (166.102.101.33) on Wednesday, March 28, 2001 - 04:09 pm:

Tsuyoshi, What is the vacuum piston? Does it come down from the air horn and push down on the power jet which has a very small spring in it? I discovered that the o-ring for the idle mixture screw is missing. I set the camshaft back one tooth (clockwise as viewed from left side of car. I also connected the vacuum hoses directly to the carb mount plate, bypassing the vacuum controls. I still have to pull out on the choke to the first detent to achive idle. the next order of business is to install a new mix. screw o-ring. I believe I have more than one problem. Will continue to work. I'ts tough to have dialogs over such distances and time changes. THANKS! Doug

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Doug (166.102.101.33) on Wednesday, March 28, 2001 - 04:15 pm:

Tsuyoshi, The throttle stop screw is turned in almost all the way. How far open should the butterfly be at idle? Thanks! Doug.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Adrian (Civicguru) (203.42.97.227) on Wednesday, March 28, 2001 - 04:23 pm:

Tsuyoshi is talking about side draught Keihins as used on the RS, I assume you are talking about the standard downdraught.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Tsuyoshi (210.159.218.193) on Thursday, March 29, 2001 - 05:32 am:

Hi Doug,
Adrian is right. I'm talking about Dual Keihin CV carb. I misunderstanding. Stock down draught carb was made by Hitachi. I don't have experience that repair and adjust for stock carb. There is two type for Japanese 1200. These name are DCG306 and DCM328.
Hitachi carb doesn't have vacuum piston, and probably It doesn't need o-ring around mix.screw.
If you have to use choke at only warm up, It is correct thing.
I assume the throttle stop screw is too turned in. Please measure gap that between throttle valve and bore near secondary bore side at primary(small) bore by thickness gauge wire. If the gap is above 1/20", I think it is too big. Because throttle opener linkage that synchronized with choke have to adjusted to about 1/20"(1.22 mm) when it pull out maximum. Usually, throttle is more closed at idle.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By ROotUS (203.34.130.96) on Thursday, March 29, 2001 - 05:54 am:

i be having troubs putting on the timing belt - i could slip the belt on and off with the old head (probably not a good thing) but since i just changed the head... it wont go on at all.. i tried starting the belt... and turning cog to try and wind the belt on... but it split and broke :( .
so steps to changing timing belt would be nice from anyone who can help. tensioner? anything to do with the two bolt things coming from plastic cover? i looked at these on another motor and they didn't seem to do much. help!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Thursday, March 29, 2001 - 02:13 pm:

Rootus, you have to undo the bolts holding the tensioner a couple of turns. The tensioner is spring loaded and after you have undone them you will find you have some slack on the T/belt. The just slide it over the top cog, spin the engine anticlockwise to take up the slack and tighten the 2 timing belt tensioner bolts.

Time for you to get a workshop manual! You are very lucky the other timing belt did not slip off.
Sounds like the other head must've had a fair bit sskimmed off
Charles

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By ROotUS (203.20.149.5) on Friday, March 30, 2001 - 11:15 pm:

yeah, i took another motor apart... and found what was going on
even after fully slacking the tensioner it wouldn't go on...
so i undid the bolts more and let the tensioner come sideways a little to clear obstructing things... even then i had a little trouble. did i accidentally put 5 head gaskets in?


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