By owen cousins (208.181.166.16) on Wednesday, April 04, 2001 - 01:59 pm:

i just put in a 32/36 in my otherwise stock 1200, the throttle cable doesnt move enough. when i push the gas pedal all the way down, the weber isnt open all the way, the secondary barrel is only a little over half the way open! how do i get the pedal to open the throttle all the way while still enabling it to idle? could i cut off the metal rod behind the pedal to let it go further towards the floor?

By david (208.130.245.217) on Wednesday, April 04, 2001 - 04:08 pm:

how did you attach your throttle cable? what are you using to keep the cable sheild taught?

By owen cousins (208.181.166.16) on Wednesday, April 04, 2001 - 08:55 pm:

I TOOK THE stock carb off, and the stock throttle cable has a lead or steel ball on the end of it. this doesn't connect to the throttle arm on the new carb directly. the cable with the ball resembled a pedal bike brake cable , so i took a nut and bolt off an old bike that is biult for this type of cable. i screwed this through the throttle arm on the carb and then connected the throttle cable,.

i know its a rigged setup but i haven't had problems over the past week other that the fact that the throttle doesnt open all the way. if i use a different hole on the throttle arm(there's about 6) i can open the throttle full, but the throttle cant return all the way to idle. right now, i also have a spring attached to the arm and the firewall to ensure the throttle closes all the way.
can i simply cut off the metal stopper behind the pedal? will that pull the throttle cable back more as i will be able to push the pedal closer to the floor?

By david (206.98.121.204) on Wednesday, April 04, 2001 - 10:25 pm:

You can get a throttle linkage kit with everything you need from redline($28). I took my stock carb linkage peive and cut it up. seems to work fine. I am going to get the kit because the mounting plate is much sturdier. I think it might give me better throttle responce, too. What did you do about the intake studs. When i put my weber(28/30) on i didn't change the studs and bent my secondary valve. You shouldn't have to cut up your pedal. I checked mine today and it opens all the way. There is a reason for that thing. Mabey so not to bend the linkage when you really slam it.

By Charles R. (64.170.157.222) on Thursday, April 05, 2001 - 12:09 am:

This is what I found works best for me.

This is the stock arm from the Hitachi carb. I cut off the section that the original spring was attached to, but not completely. If you look closely you'll see I left a "nub" where I drilled a hole and the spring is now attached. My friend and I didn't like the "universal" linkage kits that Weber makes, although that's what he had on his when I met him. Those kits, we feel, put too much strain on the throttle shaft and bushings. An example of this, his bushings were worn after only a couple of years. Mine still seem fine after seven years. The good part from the Weber kit is the cable bracket. This picture has the original bracket from the other car. I made one for mine using some aluminum angle stock.

By Todd (63.52.16.82) on Thursday, April 05, 2001 - 04:58 am:

Hey Charles,
That's EXACTLY how I hook up my Webers. Right down to the spring location. Pretty cool we're on opposite coasts and still come up with the same thing.
Owen,
Cutting off the pedal won't increase your throttle travel. You just made the cable too short. Try getting a new (read uncut) cable and hooking it up like the photo.

By tedshred (63.224.195.169) on Thursday, April 05, 2001 - 08:47 am:

Yep, that's the exact same 32/36 set-up I have from the carb Todd sold me.

Works perfectly I might add.

By Anonymous (168.30.218.158) on Thursday, April 05, 2001 - 09:11 am:

I'm planning on trying the carb from a fiesta as mentioned in other posts and an adaptor plate, as well as modifying the honda air cleaner to fit. Does anyone have the part # for the trans-dapt adaptor? Also, how difficult is it to make the bracket/linkage you speak of. Thanks, Tony T.

By david (208.130.240.105) on Thursday, April 05, 2001 - 10:39 pm:

charles r., sounds good. I'm using the stock arm from my old carb too. so, i should drill a hole on the hub of the the stock arm and attach a spring to the cable plate? Should i use the spring from the throttle kit?
anon., if your speaking of the braket that fits on the throttle shaft, first, you should cut the arm off that the stock return spring goes on. Then you'll have to cut off the upper track for one of the arms on the stock carb, as well as part of the lower track. I may be able to post a pic of the bracket by itself.

By owen cousins (208.181.166.16) on Thursday, April 05, 2001 - 11:26 pm:

thanx charles, so i take the stock arm off the original carb, and cut it . where? do the arm s simply swap, i have a manual choke and there is a metal arm that opens the primary a bit when i pull the choke. would the new arm interfere?
good news though, i havent cut the cable so i can still use the same cable. what about the choke, i havent connected it yet, can i swap the choke arm off the stock carb too?

By owen cousins (208.181.166.16) on Thursday, April 05, 2001 - 11:32 pm:

oh yeah, and i already have a good bracket.

another question, this is my first carberated car, so i have no experience in tuning it. the mixture isn't right, engine is running pretty rough and backfiring when i am going over 60 km/hr and take my foot of the gas. is the mixture screw the one on the bottom of the carb, a long needle type thing that has a spring on it?

when i turn the screw, what is the best way to tell when the mix is right? i there a standard # of turns that should be right? if not, when is the mix correct?

By david (208.130.246.250) on Friday, April 06, 2001 - 01:59 am:

owen, for the choke your gonna have to cut the end off the cable.
heres the adjustment instructions i got from a guy at redline:
It is important to follow all linkage and lever installation instructions. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly.

CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING QUALITY DOES NOT MEAN A DEFECT IN THE CARBURETOR. AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING.

SET UP ADJUSTMENTS
Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed.
1. All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)
2. Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw see fig 1) by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more than 11/2 turns.
3. Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops, bottoms out. DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR. Back out the screw 2 full turns.
4. TUNING
BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE, DEVIATION WILL CAUSE THE CARBURETOR TO NOT FUNCTION TO ITS IDEAL SPECIFICATIONS AND MAY NOT PROVIDE THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL ECONOMY AS DESIGNED.
4a. Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. As long as the engine stays running idle speed is not important at this point.
4b. The first thing to do is not set up the idle speed, but to set the Idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back out the screw (recommend turning ¼ to ½ turn at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back out ½ turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best.
Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point.
4c. Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the Idle speed the screw. The screw will be sensitive and should only take ¼ to ½ turns to achieve the idle speed you like.
Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load, (AC on) and set the Idle as you like it. Don’t set it too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear. The Idle only needs to be 7 to 900 RPM with light load or AC on.
5. Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If all is still best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.
To confirm settings with the engine running. Start by screwing in the mixture screw and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in ½ turn of base line setting then all is well and have fun. Also check the speed screw and note how many total turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting should be under 2 full turns. Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes) and go on a test drive and have fun. If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the Idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs. This is done by following the rule of thumb BELOW.

Simple Rules for low speed calibration
If the mixture screw is more than 21/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small). When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. See pictures and notes in the tech 2 article supplied in the kit instructions, view and please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size. JET KITS are available if needed.
EXAMPLE With the speed screw set at no more than two (2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.
The secret to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a WEBER over other carburetors is the Idle circuit. Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation. This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability.

hope this helps.

By david (208.130.246.250) on Friday, April 06, 2001 - 02:01 am:

charles r., what's that sheild thing that you have under the carb?

By tedshred (63.224.195.169) on Friday, April 06, 2001 - 08:49 am:

David, That's a heat shield. Sorta like a tile from the space shuttles. Those exhaust manifolds get pretty dang hot, and this sheild keeps the carb (and unmixed fuel) from getting too hot. (can you say KABLAM!)

By david (208.130.246.144) on Friday, April 06, 2001 - 09:34 am:

charles r., did you make that yourself?

By quikrick (63.204.16.66) on Friday, April 06, 2001 - 10:23 am:

David,
Those come standard on CVCCs.

By david (208.130.241.214) on Friday, April 06, 2001 - 11:09 pm:

Does anyone have one that they'd want to get rid of?

By david (208.130.241.214) on Friday, April 06, 2001 - 11:09 pm:

Does anyone have one that they'd want to get rid of?

By Charles R. (64.170.157.157) on Saturday, April 07, 2001 - 03:43 pm:

Hey guys,
The spring on my car goes from the bottom of the cable bracket to the linkage arm, I think it might be my stock Hitachi spring (may have been shortened). This Weber has an electric choke, I don't use one in the other car (gotta love California). That linkage from the choke is a separate piece, I didn't use it. I also ground off the part of this piece that operates the Hitachi's secondary throttle plate, it's not needed for the Weber and I think it hit something. Sounds like David did the same thing.
If you put this setup on a CVCC, it looks better if you get a 1200 throttle cable and adapt it to the pedal than it does if you use the CVCC cable.

I'll look for another shield, They're not really setup for the 1200's though. Carb hole is wrong, no cut out for the thermostat housing, etc.

By Anonymous (208.60.186.160) on Saturday, April 07, 2001 - 07:36 pm:

Datsun b210's came with heat sheilds that will fit like that. ....Tony T.

By owen cousins (24.64.211.187) on Saturday, April 07, 2001 - 08:50 pm:

when i tool off my original carb, there were two wires running from it. the weber has no place for wires. should i leave the wires discoinnected? or connect them?

By david (208.130.246.129) on Saturday, April 07, 2001 - 11:06 pm:

One's a fuel cut off valve, which is the bit that screws in. you won't need it. Is the other one a vacumn tube?

By Adrian (Civicguru) (203.42.97.227) on Sunday, April 08, 2001 - 05:55 am:

Actually both wires go to the fuel cutoff solenoid. Just ignore them.

By david (208.130.246.228) on Sunday, April 08, 2001 - 09:54 am:

Mine only had one. Sorry.