Attention Charles

First Generation Civic Discussion Board: First Generation Civic Discussion Board: Attention Charles
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Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By mariusz (203.134.17.8) on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 01:14 am:

Can the civic hubs be re-drilled to 100pcd?

If not, will hubs from another civic (100pcd) bolt up to the 10.5 inch disks?

The reason i'm asking is that there aren't any good wheels avaliable, and performance wheels said that the minilites will not fit?

Thanks heaps

Mariusz

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 06:37 pm:

Hey Mariusz,

The short answer is no. The centre hole of the disks is about 90mm, drilling that close to the edge of the disk would compromise strength and probably open into the inner radius.

Charles

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Nikolaj (213.197.5.73) on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 10:32 pm:

There is allready a great amount of info on this subject. You have to get 81-83 civic hubs, which allows bigger brakes, but you have to get them to fit on your old upright. Everyone will tell you they have brackets for this.. and you will need those. That is about all I know.
The front is not really hard, I think, I'm concerned about the rear. I don't wanna grind down my axle, and I don't want to redrill my drums. Untill I have a solution to my satisfaction I'm sticking with 12inch. If brakes are not really the thing you want changed but wheels, there are other options. In the UK superlite makes wheels for the 120PCD up to 14 inch, they are reasonably priced for new wheels. Check out www.superlite-wheels.com
I still have plenty of 12inch-120PCD lite wheels, they're all old though....and small, off course.

Hey Charles, I've talked about my new 1983 civic 1.3 sport. It has the vented discs up front, but only 13 inch wheels, which means the discs are pretty small in diameter. The car stops amazingly well with these, though, sometimes I get the feeling I have ABS or something, no dragging wheels.....ever! I'll have to measure the diameter, just thought it might be of interest...

Nikolaj

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Nikolaj (213.197.5.73) on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 10:38 pm:

Oh yeah I forgot...
Charles, I know now that my rear stub axle is shrunken together with the rear upright, so they are stuck together. But isn't it true that in the 87CRX the axle is mounted to the backing plate with a big bolt..?? Would it then be an option to grind off my axles, this will leave the upright with 4 bolt pattern, to which I then screw a different backing plate along with such a mountable rear axle??? Would this be more durable (if possible) than the things I mentioned in the previous message???
Thanx heaps,
Nikolaj

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Adrian (Civicguru) (203.42.97.227) on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 11:06 pm:

EB rear stub axles are not "shrunken together", they are machined out of one cast piece. EN1 hatch (not wagon) stub axles unbolt from the upright and you can chop the EB stub off and weld an EN stub on, BUT I would really want to trust the person doing the welding as it's a cast piece and takes a lot of load. You can't just bolt the EN stub on as there isn't enough room. The EB uses much smaller bolts to hold the backing plate on, which I wouldn't trust to hold on the stub and the mounting holes don't exactly line up in any case. If you drill out and tap the mounting holes to a bigger size you end up with not a lot of metal left around them.
Personally I prefer the method where you modify the EB stub axle. With the new ones we developed you only need to remove about 1/2mm from the outer bearing surface if using standard EN bearings. Nothing is removed from the inner bearing surface so the strength of the piece is not really compromised. The EN stub is stronger than the EB, but you introduce the weakness of the join onto the upright if you use them.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By mariusz (203.134.17.8) on Wednesday, May 09, 2001 - 02:43 am:

Charles

Would the hubs from the ct2 frontcut I have, bolt up to the 10.5 inch brake conversion.

My other concern is the cost of the wheels form performance wheels. Thats $1000 without tyres. Hot 4 and fast 4, have ads with wheel/tyre packages for around $1000.

Mariusz

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Charles (137.219.16.107) on Wednesday, May 09, 2001 - 10:38 pm:

Mariusz,

The big brake kit you ordered is made especially for the 1200 hub. At around $200 a wheel from performance wheels, thats $800, both 185 60 14" and 195 50 15s can be had for around $100 a tyre. So thats $1200 for a full set, as you would be buying the whole lot from one place they should be able to do it for around $1100. Similar to ads in the mags. Bear in mind these are australian made rims not cheap taiwanese imports. Australia makes some of the best rims in the world (simmons, ROH) and we have some pretty good technology here, you also know that you can get a replacement if you do damage one 5 years down the line. It is my opinion (and the opinion of a fair few other civic owners I know) that there is no wheel more suited to the civic than the panasport/minilite/superlite rims. If Mike Siedler is around he may post a pic of his car with them on it, there are plenty of race civics with these rims on.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By mariusz (203.134.17.8) on Thursday, May 10, 2001 - 07:22 am:

I guess your right about the wheels.

I had a closer look at the city disks today, and realiezed that they are quite different from the civic.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Nikolaj (213.197.6.237) on Thursday, May 10, 2001 - 10:00 pm:

Too much errors!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Nikolaj (213.197.6.237) on Thursday, May 10, 2001 - 10:08 pm:

I get them when trying to post lately!!
Now that I didn't feel like writitng an entire message for nobody it works again....!! Or is there some kind of lock on some topics??

Question for Adrian: When you say taking 1/2 mm of the outer bearing surface, you mean off the stub axle where the outer bearing will be positioned, right? So the inner bearing is no problem?? Grinding the axles I can do at my school. I will first work out all the exact measurements on the axle. If I get it right I will post them someday.

Question #2: A friend of mine is now in the states. He says he saw a Wagon first gen as soon as he got off. I remember that the uprights of these wasgons will take the bigger brakes, right? If so my man is gonna have to get his hands dirty and bring me a couple....

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By ROotUS (203.23.169.176) on Thursday, May 10, 2001 - 10:13 pm:

what is suitable offset when looking for wheels for the honda. is 45 offeset ok for the stock car?

really need to know

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By mariusz (203.134.17.8) on Friday, May 11, 2001 - 04:08 am:

Hey Rootus

The standard civic offset is 39mm positive. This means you would need an offset that is the same or less than 39mm, ie 35mm, 30mm etc.

With a 45mm offset the tyres would probably rub against the suspension, however a 20mm offset would rub against the guards if lowerd.

For a 15x6.5 with 195-50 an offset between 30-35mm would be perfect. But you would probably need to lip the gaurds slightly with the 30mm offset.

Mariusz

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Adrian (Civicguru) (203.42.97.227) on Tuesday, May 22, 2001 - 03:58 pm:

Nikolaj: Yep, about 1/2mm off the stub axle where the small outer bearing sits. No, the inner bearing is not ok. You need to sleeve the stub axle where the bigger inner bearing goes.
I get the impression the bigger front brakes only came out on later wagons (78-79), not on earlier ones.

ROotUS: 45 is a bit too much offset, but they will work. 36 or 38 would be better.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Mike Hannant (203.134.58.66) on Tuesday, May 22, 2001 - 06:50 pm:

Back to the original post... I have Performance rims on my 79 civic that were drilled by Performane Wheels to 120pcd... they are the Performance wheels minilites in a 13x6.5 size...

I bought them through North Terrace Tires in Adelaide who dealt directly with Performance wheels (which are made in Adelaide)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Mike Hannant (203.134.58.66) on Tuesday, May 22, 2001 - 06:50 pm:

Back to the original post... I have Performance rims on my 79 civic that were drilled by Performane Wheels to 120pcd... they are the Performance wheels minilites in a 13x6.5 size...

I bought them through North Terrace Tires in Adelaide who dealt directly with Performance wheels (which are made in Adelaide)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Nikolaj (213.197.4.177) on Monday, May 28, 2001 - 12:07 am:

I have one last problem.... You say: "With the ones we developed...." Does this mean we're talking about allready modified stub axles, or the originals?? I was under the impression that the modified ones would allready be sleeved and shaved. Does anyone have a set of modified stub axles to sell?? I think I'll get some EN-bearings and just start measuring, I really want to finish my brake-conversion...

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Adrian (Civicguru) (203.42.97.227) on Monday, May 28, 2001 - 12:50 am:

I'm talking about modified original stub axles. The modifications aren't all that involved, but it did take a bit of thinking, measuring, and trial and error (Jeff bent it not me ... :)) to get them right.
I don't have any extras at the moment, but I can get them made without too much trouble (main problem is finding the time to do it as I seem to be terribly busy these days, I haven't even been able to find the time to get my broken cylinder head fixed yet ...)


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