By mariusz (203.134.26.2) on Thursday, June 14, 2001 - 08:43 am:

I just got my suspension back from the shop. It consists of;
- Koni wet kits (shortened 20mm)
- Custom threaded strut tubes (height adjustable)
- 200lb front springs
- 175lb progressive rate rear springs
- 16mm front swaybar
- 20mm rear swaybar
Now the guy who did the suspension, said that the springs are just the right rates, for my 75'. I told him I wanted 150lb rear springs.

My concern is that the car will be too tail happy.

Can any of you guys shead some light on what the car might handle like, OR WHICH SPRING RATES WOULD BE BETTER. I only have 14 days to change them. Keep in mind that the car will have a EK/ER hybrid motor, and about 50-60kg worth of audio in the rear. I can't take the car for a drive and see how it handles, because it a bare shell at the moment. And you guys know how these cars can just take over you mind and make you spend stupid money on them, at the wrong time. I should have waited till the car was finished first, but then again I wouldn't be a real civic owner, would I now?

Thanks heaps

Mariusz

By Adrian (Civicguru) (203.42.97.227) on Thursday, June 14, 2001 - 06:15 pm:

It's practically impossible to tell till you put it all together and try it. There is a lot more that affects handling than just spring rates. Roll center, height, weight, alignment, damping, bushes, sway bars etc. etc.
Once you have it together you could find it's tail happy or else understeers like a pig, but alignment and corner weight changes may well change that entirely.

Common theory doesn't always work. Here's an example - a few years ago in a previous life of my car I stuck a 20mm sway bar on the back. Everybody says that a big sway bar on the back of a front wheel drive increases oversteer right? Not the way I had the suspension set up ... it actually reduced oversteer!

My opinion - suck it and see.

By Nikolaj (213.197.4.109) on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 06:29 pm:

Adrian, was it you that used the EN uprights up front?? I know you guys are against it, but my basic quesion is this...: How much do I need to lower the car to compensate for that 3 degrees of camber the wrong way (+??)?? How drivable is it then for the main roads?? I'll need longer rods? Probably the whole EN axle? And how much do I shorten the Koni wet kit inserts to achieve this?
I'm just very curious...

By Adrian (Civicguru) (203.42.97.227) on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 06:40 pm:

Yeah, I've got EN1 uprights on the front and as I've said, they are a pain in the butt!
You cannot get rid of that much positive camber simply by lowering the car (not even with the car touching the ground) with standard lower control arms.
You need to use EN1 driveshafts, MUCH longer control arms (50+mm longer than standard) and move the top of the strut in as well. Just shortening your shocks won't help. You also have the problem of the tie rod ends being the wrong way up.
PLEASE DON'T DO IT.
Get some of those caliper brackets from Anthony, it's INFINITELY easier to use them.

By Nikolaj (213.197.5.21) on Saturday, June 23, 2001 - 02:15 am:

Thanks for getting my mind straight...
Well I'll just go with my stock brakes, cause I'm now trying to get them 14 inchers on the car! Also, I've totally cleaned out the front cilinders. I really want to know how these brakes work when in good condition. I've also opened up those brake-pressure-regulators for the rear, and they were a mess. Can I use the EN regulators for this or do these work with different pressures? I have them in much better shape. It's really a big problem, I have all the EN bits for the brake conversion, 14" 120PCD wheels with 3 nuts, 15" tires lying around ready to fit new 15" wheels..
So what the hell am I to do? I'm gonna have to choose a path. Cheapest is the 14", original brakes and no hassle. Best is off course more expensive... There's these 2 voices in my head struggling for my attention. Can anyone add a 3d one, please??