By Oblivion (66.20.146.221) on Sunday, September 30, 2001 - 08:41 pm:

I have a 83 Civic Wagon with a EK1. I just stuck it in, the Civic Ignition, fuel system, and tranny still remain. My problem is I lost the timing marks. The marks are on the flywheel, and i am using the Civic flywheel so they aren't going to line up. So, I have to play it by ear, well... my ear says its too advanced, but i have it set all the way retarded. Could it be that going from the 30+ vacuum lines to 2 because of the weber carb, pulls too hard on the vacuum advance?? It just seem no matter what i do, i can't get it tuned right. I wouldn't mind going to a aftermarket ignition, if that would be a solution. I have been told that aftermarket ignitions can provide more power, better mileage, and smoother idle, which my idle isn't all that smooth. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.

By Sash (Sash) (207.225.92.162) on Sunday, September 30, 2001 - 09:19 pm:

I placed a Ek1 in my 79 CVCC. I also thought I had a huge timing problem. My ear sucked!!!! So i took into the local Honda guru's, it runs much better. I am still unsatisfied though. I havent come up with a anwser yet. Let me know if you figure it out. Good luck

By ddechon (12.78.116.159) on Monday, October 01, 2001 - 03:31 pm:

The timing marks on a civic are on the belt pulley. Do you have timing marks on your belt pulley? If not you can take the timing cover off and use marks on the side of head or block. It'll get you in the ball park. If your still not close enough and if you think there's something else wrong, keep reading.

I had some timing problems with my civic. My distributor was 180 degrees out. I was running, but very rough. I hooked a timming light and I didn't see the marks at all. Did you take out your distributor?

Timing adjustment marks are for fine adjustments to the timing. However you could have something else out of whack.

You can also theck the position of your points and rotor in your distributor. If the engine is in the right position, you should get continuity through your points because the points should be touching. And the rotor should be pointing to the right spark plug. The position of the motor defines what spark plug the rotor should be pointing to.

You should also have timming marks on your timing timing belt pulleys. You can rotate the engine (with a socket wrench) until the marks on your timing pullies line up with the marks on the block and head. However you also have to make sure the number one piston in the compression stroke. If it's in the exhaust stroke, you can rotate the engine 1 turn and it should be in the compression stroke. When the engine is in the right position the electrical system should be ready to spark. After everything lines up with the motor and electrical system, then you should do the fine tuning with the timing light or by ear.

Darrell
(I miss my engine)

By Anonymous (208.195.243.199) on Monday, October 01, 2001 - 05:03 pm:

A bit off topic, but why did you use the civic flywheel? Were you trying to save some weight, or was there a transmission issue? I'm curious because most of the folks I know that have done the conversion have used all Accord components.

By oblivion (24.181.68.125) on Monday, October 01, 2001 - 07:34 pm:

I didn't have the budget for a new tranny, and the accord flywheel was too big for the civic tranny. So, the civic flywheel had to be redrilled to the accord bolt pattern.

By Todd (63.50.56.103) on Tuesday, October 02, 2001 - 04:18 am:

The easiest way to solve your problem is to put the engine at TDC, then create your own marks. One on the pulley, and one on the block to reference it by. And by the way, you don't get extra vacuum by eliminating hoses, so your 2 vacuum hoses should be fine.

By errol (205.188.195.172) on Tuesday, October 02, 2001 - 11:23 pm:

like Todd said, make sure the #1 piston is at tdc. (Pull #1 spark plug and rotate the crank bolt counter clockwise til you feel air pressure at the spark plug hole with finger over it) The turning will get easy all of a sudden for a 'very short time' because the pistons arn't really going up or down. You have to try and get it in the middle before it starts getting 'hard' again. That was the compression stroke! Now look at the rotor to see if It's pointing at #1 wire terminal. If not losen the 10mm bolt and restab the distributor to get it as close as possible! ....Is the vacume advance holding a vacume? Check by putting a hose onit and sucking, with your tounge over the hole hold it....Does it release? or stay...It'll be obvious! I think the 80-83 civic ones come in faster... by 2800rpm. And check the plugs too! You didn't get #3-4 vacume lines mixed up at the back of the carb did you?

By Zippy (Zippy) (205.188.198.34) on Friday, October 05, 2001 - 11:46 am:

Darrell,

I'm soooo sorry that you miss your engine. I was afraid you might. If it helps, the engine is well loved. I look at it every day for a minute or two. I put the head on last month. I actually got some time this weekend and I put on the flywheel, clutch and transmission. This weekend I plan to drop it in the hole. I hope to have it race ready before too long. My Isuzu pickup is too old to race now, and my new Sentra is well, new. Listen, if you find yourself in desperate need of an engine, let me know. I bet we could get somthing together.

Roger

By ddechon (12.91.125.145) on Saturday, October 06, 2001 - 08:56 pm:

Thanks Roger

I want my engine back! Just kidding
I am looking forward to converting the car. When I think about working on a carb or adjusting valves, I think about old technology. I'd LOVE to have the performance, but for some reason I can't imagine installing another gas guzling, oil dripping machine that will constantly need work. An electric conversion seems fun, challenging and suitable for my lifestyle. I just hate seeing the car sitting there lifeless.

I'm still hitting the rust spots. I'm working on repairing my rusted battery tray. I've got a good method now. Every other day I go out there and spread some Navel Jelly on it a few times then rinse it off. Then when I'm done, I coat with some light oil. The oil softens the rust and prevents more rust from growing overnight. That's been working pretty well. I even tried Molases to get rid of the rust. It's an old wifes tale that doesn't work! I hear that desiel fuel and motor oil (mixed) will strip rust. But the part has to be small enough to be placed in a bucket for about 4 days. I might also try sand blasting some day. My gas tank and gas lines have been removed.

I found a low cost electric motor for the conversion, but it doesn't have the power I want. I'd rather wait for a good motor. The project continues and there's no going back...As for my other project...My concession trailer should be health certified by the end of the month. www.yummycup.com

Take Care,
Darrell

By Zippy (Zippy) (64.12.104.37) on Monday, October 08, 2001 - 06:39 am:

Darrell,

Try Nitric Acid. This will rapidly dissolve rust. They sell rust removal compounds containing this at auto parts stores. You might try a finding a bottle of Nitric at a hardware store also. Get a gallon. Use it straight with a paint brush, gloves, and glasses. If you get any on you wash up, it burns like heck. If you want a bit more power try Aqua Regia. Nitric and Hydrochloric (aka. Muratic) Acids 1:1, this will disolve the good metal as well though so be careful.

Roger

By errrol (64.12.102.43) on Tuesday, October 09, 2001 - 11:14 pm:

Get a battery that doesn't leak! Or use POR15 Nothing eats through it!!! Look for the website

By ddechon (12.78.116.144) on Wednesday, October 10, 2001 - 08:48 am:

I've been chipping away at the battery tray. I'm just going to cut it off. The rust is behind the tray and behind the support plate. If I leave it there it'll get worse. During the conversion process I'll have to make battery trays. It wouldn't hurt to extend one tray a little further to fit on more battery. I'd rather do that than worry about a panel that will eventuatually rust. I was also thinking about replacing the original tray from Majestic Honda because the parts are cheap. I think it'll be easier and cheaper to take a chisel and cut the spot welds.

Hey you guys in Canada. I've been thinking about buying this battery. Have you heard of them?
http://www.vhbbatteries.com/

Thanks errol
http://www.por-15.com/

Don't forget to fill your batteries with distilled water!

Darrell