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Has anyone any thoughts/experience on the fitment of a motorcycle exhaust pipe to the 1200 system?? I currently have a bone stock system - I haven't done any measuring, but they would seem to be a close fit. The motor displacement is relatively equal, and I bet the sound (very dear to my heart) would be much better than the standard cherry bomb/crome 8" barrel I see so often these days on the road...
On another note, I once purchased an "Ansa" brand name exhaust for an 1981 Civic, and I loved it. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find any trace of 'em anymore. Might anyone have a contact - I own a 1978 1200 if that makes any difference...
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Steve call John Clarke at Ansa in Atlanta. He might still have some personal stock of those mufflers. He bought alot of the disscontinued stuff ansa made. I dont know the number but the web address is something like www.ansa.com. I bought my old 1983`s muffler from him for $50.00. Get the phone # from the site and call him personaly.
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I have a pretty hot after market exaust from a bike sitting in my garage waiting for me to fab a bracket to mount it. The Civic I stole it from was using a bungee cord to hold the thing on. Bet it sounded nice though...
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Thanks Zoom but I didn't have any luck finding him and I used 4 different search engines...
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I found the link: http://www.ansaautomotive.com/
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Sorry its not Atlanta, its Macon GA. He should still be there.
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If richard ever posts my other pics of 78 civic u can see the exhaust, it had 2-1/4" stainless steel piping with a aftermarket muffler( full stainless with a a 4" stainless tip) the muffler is about $160 canadian and the tip is $85 canadian...it sounds like those zippy new civics we all hear. On the carb. version it a little more raunchy!!!
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I just got a 75 civic 1200 and it has a hole in the exhaust pipe. I need to replace it. My plans are to hop the car up and think this might be a good place to start - is it? If I go 2" all the way back do I need to replace the exhaust manifold too? How will this effect performance? What mufflers should I look at? I want a performance muffler without a loud sound - is this possible?
Signed with lots of questions and not much knowledge - Tom
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Hi Tom,
I'm not sure about the manifold, I don't think you need to replace it. My exhaust is 2" from the header back. I have a 25" cherry bomb muffler in the front spot under the shifter. I've also tried several kinds of mufflers in the back resonator position. One that was nice for my stereo listening was a Dynomax (not the superflo), this was the quietest system I've had. At one time I had just a Supertrapp concealed disk, it was much louder, and the reason I put the cherry bomb on. The setup I have right now uses some unknown resonator we found on the floor of a Midas muffler shop. I got a ticket for modified exhaust ONCE with it, But it was at 3:00am on a desolate hwy and the cop didn't pull me over for that(he couldn't read my reg. sticker). One thing to kind of stay away are the giant tips everyone likes these days. They can make the system louder, I'll confess that My tip is 3" just cause it looks cool. Anything you put under there should make a "feelable" differance.
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Thanks Charles,
I have a couple more dumb questions about a new exhaust sysytem. First, do I need a specialty shop to get a 2" exhaust put on? or will any muffler shop work? I know a 2" exhaust is no big deal, but will they reject the work because it is not a stock item, or for some liability/legal reason? Second, I'm not yet familiar with name brands, muffler types, performance features/aspects, etc... what am I looking for in a muffler and how much should I expect to pay? Third, Do I need to do any other modifications to get a 2" pipe all the way back? and when I say "all the way back" what exactly do I mean?..From the manifold to the end of the tail pipe?(obviously with a muffler in there). This is my first ever customization and I don't know what the hell I'm doing, so please forgive my very elementary questions.
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I've usually gotten my work done at a Ma & Pa muffler shop. Actually I knew the owner before he opened the shop. I've also gotten things done at franchise type shops(Midas). The trick is simply finding someone who has a clue about what you want to do. Case in point, I go to a shop (Javiers) with my brand new header installed (open header, gotta love the sound)and talk about pipe installation. He starts talking about using stock (teeny diameter) pieces, the conversation ends there. Any decent muffler shop will have the pipe and tools to bend up the pipe to fit, You just need to talk to them about what you want. you'll find someone that will do it. Now I've changed things now and again, but the basic setup cost me about $250.00 US for the whole thing(mufflers included).
Cherry Bomb is a brand name of a cheap glasspack muffler. Generic glasspacks are a common item in discount auto stores, they're usually around $20.00 US. Just ask a redneck in a peek-up truck where you can find some, muffler shops have them too. Glasspacks let the exhaust flow really well(just look inside one), being quiet is not their strong suit however. The rule of thumb for glasspacks? The shorter, the louder (thus, the 25" unit on my car it's the longest we could get in there). As far as other types of mufflers, I could start a lecture on the subject(and have, to the cop) but I won't. When you find a GOOD shop, they WILL be able to tell you what you need to know, just ask.
One thing about routing the pipe, I ran mine under the suspension arm. I also ran mine angled along the gas tank because if it went straight towards the outlet spot, it would hit when I jacked the car up. This made working with the spring a pain because the strut wouldn't extend all the way.
And lastly, "all the way back" just means your piping shouldn't go any smaller than 2" (or whatever) at any point in the system from your manifold to the chrome tip.
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heh heh. being the cheap bastard i am i didn't feel like shelling out 20$ for a glasspack, so i took one that was tossed out and cut it open and removed all the fiberglass packing, so now it's just the center tube with the holes and the outer shell. and a friend of mine works at a muffler shop and gave me leftover bits and pieces of 2" pipe from custom jobs they did... i took all the pieces and put them together and did my own job. the best part is that the hollowed out glasspack sounds like an indy car, but throaty, without the high pitched tin-can sound the big resonator tips make... i love it. it rattles the windows of my house at idle
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I ran Volkswagon zuffer pipes on mine and with no muffler at all... loud humming motor sounds like a real motorcycle reving and shifted with out letting off gas.. man was that fun...
pic of pipes on side of car at
http://www.geocities.com/leahnana
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Ok, These are my choices... One shop will put on a Dynomax (I think that was the brand) "turbo" which seems to be almost stock and the 2" pipe from the manifold back for about $125.00.
Another shop, a performance shop, can put on either a "Iron Tough" performance muffler or a comprable muffler called a "Sparker"(? - I think that's the name they gave me, if not it's something similar to that)and the 2" pipe for about $175.00. They say these are performance mufflers and that the other shop's "Turbo" muffler isn't really. They can also add a 25" glass pack midway back to this set up. This shop (judging from the pictures on their walls)is a muscle car shop and don't do a lot of work on these smaller engines or cars. Both shops say they could also put on two glass packs (a 25" midway back and a shorter one at the back).
I guess my options are these:
1. The "Turbo" muffler with 2" pipe
(cheapest option, but quietest)
2. The "Iron Tough" w/ 2"
(Might be too loud?)(second cheapest)
3. The "Iron Tough" w/ glass pack.
(Quieter than without it?)
4. 2 glass packs (also too loud??)
Oh yeah, another shop had a Cherry Bomb "Turbo II" and a Cherry Bomb "VorTec" (pretty expensive).
So many choices, what should I do? My goal is to get added performance without sounding like a sport bike with Yoshi pipes.
Lots of questions and not much knowledge,
Tom
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Well, nevermind I guess. I just went out and did it. I went with the Dynomax Turbo muffler and 2" all the way back, since it was the cheapest option and I'm a poor college student. It sounds good though, any louder and I would feel stupid, since my engine is still stock. Now for my next challenge...to stop the backfiring.
Thanks all,
-Tom
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I just rembered the name of that other muffler. It was the "Stormer" not the "Sparker".
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Do you feel any difference?
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That is a very good price, I was quoted $375.00 for the 2" pipe from the exhaust manifold to the turbo muffler (Muffler is existing). That was my first quote. I obviously need to keep shopping.
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I just wanted 2 know should u stay inch and 3/4 for the 10 to 15" then 2" straight through 2 just in front of the back wheel. Inch and 3/4 used 2 make back pressure or do i not need any back pressure????
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What about back pressure. Doesn't the 2" create a problem with lack of it. I heard somewhere that 1.75" is a good all-around size to stick with. Any comments.
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I've got a great parts shop here in Springfield, OR that sells the cherry bombs, all sorts of pipe sizes and lengths and adaptors, fittings, clamps, etc. pretty cheap. I'm going to put something together just as soon as I figure out what I need.
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why do you need back pressure?? 2" seems ok. others say you lose low down power and burn out valves, is this true???
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Hey Thaddeus you could have saved all that work and just bought a small John Deer tractor muffler ($10.00 Cdn). It is basically a cherry bomb without any packing in it. Sounds cool...for a while... now I keep ear plugs in the car!
Think I will look into Charles suggestions...I never installed a stereo in my "cargo" 1200 as I would never hear it anyways. Shit that pipe has to create about a 135 db sound pressure level in the car. If I drive about 140 kph it becomes quiet, buuuuut!!! LOL Hard to keep that oil draining back to the pan at that RPM (no 5 speed yet) That would be OK on a weekend racer but for everyday driving an extrememly loud pipe does kinda suck.
To big a pipe causes cavitation that increases back pressure. I don't think 2" is to big though, might be for a stone stock 1200 but not to many folk here are running stock. If the 2" was cavitating at a given RPM I would presume the backpressure would still be less than that stock muffler? Anyone flowbenched any of these scenarios?
Randy
P.S. How does one post pics on this board? You guys would get a kick out of my Cargo 1200!!
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my wife races a 74 Civic touring car.We are using en1,haven't had nothing to do with Honda's before building this car could use help in many area's.We are only aloud to use standard manifold's.All are match ported to the head and exhaust manifold is ported to 1.75 in the end of the manifold where the flange bolt's on,then two inch straight through.On the old motor the exhaust manifold is match ported to the head but is standard at the end.Motor is reasonably worked the new motor will kick ass.Do you think the exhaust is ok?
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If you're keeping your Civic stock or MILDLY modified, 1 3/4 is the best choice. If you ever have plans to heavily modify the 1200, go ahead and spend the money for 2".
To quote a wise man, "Know why."
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Hey "Anonymous"
What sanctioning body will not let you use a header? You must be one of our friends from AU?
Here in North America we are able to use headers in the IT classes.
Just checking!
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New engine is heavily modified, stroker en1 and massive head job and cam. you can go upper class and change anything but in our class you have 2 run standard manifold and carby. But the carby will be holding back the new engine we think. Depending on this season on how well the wife does we may go up a class and use and use different manifolds and carby's. This will be her 2nd year in production class short circuit touring cars. Last year she came fourth and we were using not much more than stock engine. Oh by the way we come from QLD AUSTRALIA.
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Don its David from Qld Australia.Where are your other friend's in Australia from? Just finished practice sessions,Testing new carby and fuel system,all went well,Old motor out new motor in this week.
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Hi David,
All the people on the board are "friends" or so I like to think.
We may not agree on everything, and there may be lots of culture and social differences. Most of the people that post here go out of their way to give advice and we are bound together by a common interest of the early Civic.
I have only met Ted in person.
Every time I have a question lots of people usually take some time to give insight and offer their knowledge.
As for who to contact in Australia?
I think Charles from RaceCraft
http://www.users.bigpond.com/Racecraft/
or Adrian
http://www.hccnsw.webpub.net/default.asp?op=member&memnum=138
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i'm picking up an RS header. i have heard that a merge collector is a good idea(something about creating the back pressure that the header takes away which means more torque). who should i go thru and how much should it cost? what kind of pipe would be best from there back?
someone mentioned that honda used 1.5 pipe on the RS. i am going to be adding dual keihens and an RS spec cam, as well as recurve my dizzy. i'd rather lose some top end and gain some bottom. the top end should be made up by the keihens.
thanks for any advice
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Hey David,
Talk to John at Hi-tech Exhaust. All the fast import racers are using his stuff. I had him make me a merge collector for my RS manifold and it is absolutely wonderful. Great workmanship too. I'm not sure what the web address is, but any search engine should get you there.
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just talked to him. he suggested the tri-y collector. stainless:$300, steel:$225. thats really expensive. what kind of power gains will it give. i'm getting the header for a really good price, but with one of those i could be spending $500-$550(steel one) on just the exhaust, thats with ceramic coating. i'll do it if the low ends there, though. it might not be for a while.
todd, did you get one of these tri-y's or did he make something special for the RS header specifically. how much did you pay?
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Hey David,
I'm not sure what you mean by tri-y. The RS header (which is actually a manifold)is already a tri-y. The manifold looks like your stock manifold except instead of one pipe coming out, there are two. (Thus the first two of the three "Ys") Then there is a flange that bolts to the manifold and the two pipes go under the engine and "merge" into one pipe. (The third Y) When I bought my RS header, it was just the manifold, and the flange with about 3" of pipe on the flange. I fabricated the pipe from the flange, under the engine and had John make my collector. (Which was two pipes into one)
I think it cost around 100$ and was DEFINATELY money well spent. I wish I could post pics of the collector so you guys could see the quality of workmanship. John was probably under the impression you had a header with 4 tubes to "collect" whereas you only have 2.
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$100 sounds great to me. could you talk to him to see if i could get the same deal?
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how much could i ask for my 4-2-1 headers... i'm going turbo and need to buy a new car, so i probably won't need mine anymore... and it would be selfish to not share them in this world of no civic extractors....
any offers?
i'm in australia (mildura, top left of victoria)
this isn't in the for sale yet as i'm not sure wether i should sell them... i bought a whole car just for these headers!
electricks@africamail.com
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todd, also the back pressure that the merge collector makes, that doesn't enffect engine life much, does it?
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The reason for a merge collector is to reduce backpressure. Anyway, backpressure isn't necessarily a bad thing.
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that was just from something i read on this board. i'm still relativly new to the ways of the auotmobile. when i email john at hi tech back what evactly should i tell him so theres no misscomunication and to ensure that good price?
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Tell him you need a 2 into 1 collector. He'll also need the pipe dimensions and the spacing between the pipes. This means you'll have to have the whole thing built, except for the collector, before you call. He'll ask you if you want to step the pipe down before going out to 2". My experience is that this "venturi" works. It doesn't cost any more, and he can explain in detail why it works.
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todd, john from hi tech doesn't remember you or your collector. He asked to me to try to get the specs from you.
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Hey David,
E-mail me with whatever specs you need and I'll help.
retodd1200@springmail.com
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