By Glen (203.25.25.113) on Monday, October 29, 2001 - 02:09 am:

My front balljoints are worn and in my civic manual it says they are not replacable.
My local parts store has a listing but no drawing of the part. Do they come with the swing arm or is it a big job to change just the ball?

By BritCivic (128.243.220.26) on Monday, October 29, 2001 - 03:29 am:

The ball joint comes attatched to a new swing arm and you have to replace the whole lot, early models (pre 76 I think) have welded radius arms, where as later models and probably an aftermarket replacement will have radius arms connected to the swing arm by rubber bushes. This is pretty irrelevant since either style will fit, although the ones attatched by bushes should be better since they don't seperate due to fatigue/rusting.

By Jeff (205.56.145.36) on Monday, October 29, 2001 - 09:27 am:

I was going to replace mine and realized you have to replace the radius arm. The cost is around $80 per arm. I have a 79 CVCC. Does anyone know if you can repack them and just replace the rubber bushing. I am not sure if the joint is bad or not but I know the bushing is cracked.

Thanks

Jeff

By Brian Wilborn (24.5.217.89) on Tuesday, October 30, 2001 - 02:18 am:

Hmm, I just found some in good condition off a car in the scrapyard. Nice and tight and I only paid 10$ for a pair.

By BritCivic (128.243.220.25) on Tuesday, October 30, 2001 - 02:36 am:

The radius arm bushing is easy to replace, only replace the radius arm if it is knackered!

By Jeff (205.56.145.34) on Tuesday, October 30, 2001 - 08:30 am:

Britcivic, so is it just a matter of buying a new bushing repacking it with grease and slapping it on?

Thanks
Jeff

By BritCivic (128.243.220.26) on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 03:16 am:

Jeff, I think we're getting our terminology crossed here! ......the Lower track control arm , or swing arm as Geln referred to it is the beam with the balljoint at one end which bolts to the steering knuckle and a bush at the other end which bolts to the subframe. The radius arm bolts (or is welded on early models) to the track control arm, and attatches to the anti-roll bar and front subframe. That's how we refer to them in England anyway, it's always possible that you chaps refer to theses parts differently, what with your fenders, trunks and hoods!!

Anyway, the balljoint, if worn, cannot be replaced and the whole track control arm must be replaced. If the radius arm is attatched by a bolt and rubber bush as on later models, a cracked bush can be replaced without having to replace either the radius arm or the track control arm, but don't use any grease!

One reason for ball joints going is because of a cracked gaiter (the rubber which covers the top of the balljoint), so if you have cracked gaiters replace them before your balljoints wear out and you have to replae the complete control arm.

Blimey that's a long post!
Hope it helps
John

By Jeff (205.56.145.37) on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 07:13 am:

Thanks John, I got twisted around in my terminology. I have my front suspension parts torn a part while I work on installing a 83 Accord motor into my 79 CVCC. My gaiter's (is that the correct term for the part) are cracked and am not sure how long they have been that way. What is a good indicator that your ball joints are bad. I have read in one of the repair manuals that they talk about a certain amount of free play. Not really clear on how to check for free play. Also, you mention:

- One reason for ball joints going is because of a cracked gaiter (the rubber which covers the top of the balljoint), so if you have cracked gaiters replace them before your balljoints wear out and you have to replae the complete control arm.

If I do replace the rubber cover, do I pack it with grease and then place the cover over and bolt it up?

Thanks for all the help.

Jeff

By Paul Krummenacker (12.145.208.12) on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 12:03 pm:

I've had a problem with blowing apart the balljoints on my control arms, but since I'm rallying I can't really fault the part, but rather it's my abuse I've put on them. I find that first the gaiter rips open and then just to constant pounding of the corners just wears the whole balljoint to the point of being very sloppy.

I'm looking to replace the balljoint with a metal Heim joint (or Delrin bushing, I think). I'm planning on welding a bolt through the joint and then drilling the knuckle to accept the bolt.

Does anybody see this as being possible, or am I heading in the wrong direction.

I just don't find the rubber/plastic gaiter to be strong enough for rallying. I know on my friend's Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 he uses a polyurethane boot to protect and stiffen his ball joints.

also I guess some people use polyurethane boots on their CV joints, does anybody know of a source of these to fit a Honda? I've seen some split boots to fit VW's (Bugs) but they looked way too big to fit a G1 Honda.

P

By BritCivic (128.243.220.25) on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 01:24 am:

Jeff,
You normally check for 'free play' with the suspension assembled to the car by levering the control arm away from the steering knuckle with a large bar and feeling for movement between the control arm and the steering knuckle. The only movement present should be a rotational movement between the two, any vertical or horizantal movement indicates wear (and over here you will fail your Ministry of Transport test on the basis of this wear). If you have the control arm in your hand, the balljoint should be quite stiff to move with your fingers, if it is very free or you can feel movement other than rotational movement it is knackered and you need a new one (obviously, any grinding or crunching is Bad!). If it's had split gaiters for a long time then the chances are the joint is dead.
Yes, when fitting a new gaiter pack it with grease first...good luck, I find these a right bugger to fit! (are we allowed mild obscenities on this board?!)
Sory Paul, I don't know much about modifying these cars...rallying them has got to be fun though.......one day....
...I'm still looking for that City Turbo motor....

John

By Anthony (210.50.30.4) on Sunday, November 04, 2001 - 12:33 am:

Try th elinks on the front page of this site,a company in Asia do them,we can get em here in Aus for $35us each and they list at Honda at trade price for $90US. go figure,they have all the pressing marks as the factory ones too