Subtopic	Posts		Updated
	Civic 1200 Conversion	15		01/30 07:26pm
	Oil pump drive query	1		01/26 02:51am
	Oil pump drive query	1		01/26 02:48am

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Tuesday, January 08, 2002 - 08:20 pm:

Ok, I think i've got a timing problem, but i'm not sure. I can't get the freaking thing to start! It will crank, it's getting spark at all plugs, the distributor is on mark, but it just won't catch. Any ideas? Could it be the belt? I've never taken it off and the car was running before I bought it. Could just pushing it around cause anything to go wrong with it? What should I look for? Correct me if i'm wrong, but you can't check timing unless the car is running right? Someone said to me that if the belt was a notch off the car won't start, is this true? I need help please!!!

By Adrian (Civicguru) (165.228.11.61) on Tuesday, January 08, 2002 - 08:22 pm:

You haven't mentioned whether or not it's getting fuel...

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Tuesday, January 08, 2002 - 08:41 pm:

Yes, as far as I can tell, in fact I think i've flooded it twice. The first time I put it together I missed the little o-ring that goes in the small chamber and it was blowing gas all over the place, so I know it's getting fuel. I can smell it too. Oh, by the way, it's a 75 cvcc if that helps anyone.

By devon (209.197.185.197) on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 12:57 am:

When we changed heads on my civic, the thing wouldn't start either. Turned out that we set the distributor and then the timing, therefore off-setting the distributor. I don't know if this is your issue but we checked the distributor and it was out due to our timing adjustment. Fixed it and it started.

By Don (209.181.52.77) on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 07:05 am:

OK, it is posible to flood an engine and get the plugs so wet that the will not fire.

Take out all the plugs and take the primary wire (small one) off the neg side of the coil crank it over with no plugs. Its real easy to have a fire if you skip the coil disconect.Let it set a hr if its real wet in there put in new plugs or make sure the old ones are clean and dry. Put the wire back on the coil.

Take an old spark plug or go down to the local parts store and get a spark tester. Ground the tester and then disconect the coil secondary lead (big spark plug wire) from the distributor. Check to see that you do have a nice strong spark. If you do, reapeat the test on the plug wires to make sure they are not bad.

No spark at the coil?

Take a test light and ground the clip to the negative side of the battery and touch the postive treminal. This will keep you from chasing problems that dont exist by making sure the test light works FIRST.

If you do not have spark then touch a 12v test. light to the negative side of the coil and have a friend crank it it should flash on and of ass the coil is triggered. If the test light lights but does not flash then you need to check the points.
If it does not light at all, chech the positive side of the coil with the key on. it should have voltage to make the test light come one steady. If it does not then you have a fuse or wiring problem ( ign switch ect...)

This sums up the electrical part. Got to got to work. There are 3 thing that an engine to have to fire-- fuel/air -compression- spark.

If you did not touch the timming belt since it ran last you probably did not jump time.

On the other hand if you put a timing belt on you probaly got that bugger off a few teeth.

I will check back in after work.

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 09:43 pm:

So, I need more tools! Finally I can justify it to my wife. I'll look into all of this as soon as I can afford the testers, they shouldn't be too much right? Of course, before I do anything I have to recharge the battery since I drained it trying to start it over and over again.

By Don (209.181.52.89) on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 10:15 pm:

The total cost for a test light and a spark checker should not be over 25 dollars.
Get the best test light you can afford, you will use this allot! The spark checker can be made but comercial ones are less than 8 bucks.
Go to
Harbor Frieght
1335 N. Mason st. Portland
Phone is 503-493-2863

This is basic stuff everybody should have!!

Homemade spark tester
http://www.mgbexperience.com/service/spark-tester.html
http://www.geocities.com/nevadawalrus/spark-tester.html
Store bought this is one design go to Harbor Frieght though.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/file/part128.htm

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 10:53 pm:

Thanks Don, I'll look into it. I also have to call and order my header, I got the number from Natcho for Kirk racing which is where he got his. I'm excited!

By Zippy (Zippy) (64.12.106.33) on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 09:58 am:

I'm just going to throw this out.... many years ago I did a rebuild on Zippy and couldn't get it to start. tried and tried again and again... my friend, with a fresh mind, came over and quickly straightened it out. I had the plug wires in the wrong order, as if the thing turned clockwise. Once he realized that I was wrong about the way the engine turned everything was better. May you be so lucky/stupid.

Roger

By Jeffery (24.65.73.28) on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 11:39 am:

Just a thought guys....How are th points. I just a similar issue on my 75 and the points were worn down to the end. Put new ones in and voila. (make sure you gap the points correctly....can cause hard running)

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 07:55 pm:

Well, I suppose I could have the wires in the wrong order, but I did a wire for wire swap from the way it was, so I don't think so but will definitely check it out. The points are brand new, as is the cap and rotor. The distributor itself actually looks fairly new as well. Keep the ideas coming, and maybe I can narrow it down.

By dennis singley (65.101.1.142) on Saturday, January 12, 2002 - 04:53 am:

Just an idea... make sure the wires going into the dizzy (I'm not Aussie but I like the term!) aren't grounding to the case. You can replace the insulator & wire I think they're still avail. at Honda dealers. dennis

By dennis singley (65.101.1.142) on Saturday, January 12, 2002 - 04:58 am:

The ideas keep flooding in like a drippy faucet! Have you checked the idle cut solenoid on the back of the carb (if you are runnung stock). You may be flooding it from the accelerator pump after repeated tries & if the solenoid is stuck you won't have an idle circuit. dennis

By Bruce Harmeling (66.20.228.54) on Tuesday, January 15, 2002 - 05:59 pm:

the big question, it was running before you bought it, did you do work on anything???

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Tuesday, January 15, 2002 - 09:04 pm:

Ok, here's the whole story. I bought the car in non-working condition. The exhaust manifold had seized up. The previous owner had removed both manifolds and the carb, then he had a "friend who works in a machine shop"(I read this to mean 'guy I barely know who didn't know what he was doing')take the manifold apart and clean it out. When I got the car, all the parts were there, the exhaust manifold was in two pieces, it had broken bolts, needed surfacing and had these horrible holes chased that were out of line. I took the manifold to a good machine shop where they redid everything he did wrong. When I got it home, the intake manifold was missing, I bought a new one and put it all together following the 75 1500 cvcc mechanics guide I bought. Everything is there, it's all put together, and it won't start. The previous owner swears that the only problem he had with the car was when the exhaust manifold went bad and that the car was running until that happened. Since I bought it all that has been done is towing and pushing it around. So to make a long answer short, the only thing I worked on was putting back together the manifold assembly, I didn't touch the carb, I didn't touch the distributor until recently when I was looking for the problem.

By Zippy (Zippy) (205.188.200.41) on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 - 09:37 am:

Exhaust manifold seized up????? It is a non-moving part, nothing to seize or not seize. Please elaborate.

By Bruce Harmeling (66.20.228.84) on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 - 10:54 am:

Zippy is right, exhaust manifolds do not sieze up, maybe get clogged up. check to make sure your exhaust system is clear, if nothing else just diconnect your exhaust pipe from manifold. Then make sure your motor is lined up right, if the guy who owned it before did not put it on top dead center, then pulled out the distributor, then just shoved it back in not caring. so put the motor on top dead center on the compression stoke and make sure the rotor is where it is suppose to be, plugs are one to four, right to left. make sure the firing order is correct. the timing belt can be checked now also, just take the cover, should be plastic, off the right end of motor, the wheel under it should be toothed and should have a mark on it, a lot of them say "UP", your book will tell you where it is suppose to line up. if not loosen the belt and turn the CAM only until it is right. your book will help you out also. get you started at least.

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 - 08:08 pm:

Ok, let me rephrase, by seized up, I suppose I mean clogged up. The tin heat shield inside the manifold rusted to bits. The exhaust system is clear. As far as plug order, 1 to 4, is that right to left from inside the car or facing it? I'll be checking into this more this weekend, just haven't had time during the week. I'll bet ya it rains!

By Bruce Harmeling (66.20.228.37) on Thursday, January 17, 2002 - 04:50 am:

facing the car

By Nikolaj (130.161.173.33) on Monday, January 21, 2002 - 02:39 am:

I think your problem is probably ignition order.
I've had this problem when I just supposed the distributor moved from left to right (from inside the car), but I believe its right to left. Plus I also had the timing on the dot, only had the cam 180 degrees the wrong way, which leads to the 4th cil firing when you expect the 1st one to. So check this out, if that lil thing holding the cam-pulley is pointing downward, this is the case. If it is pointing upwards, you've got it right. Don't take the pulley off, just change the wires on the distributor.
BTW: having the belt one tooth off will still make the car start, also a little off-timing won't make her NOT start...it's a Honda remember?? This is why I think you must be way off. Also, you can turn the engine with the cam in any position without damage, which is a loveable characteristic !

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Monday, January 21, 2002 - 08:09 pm:

Ok, update time. I got the battery recharged and tried to start it, after a few attempts it acted like it was gonna go and then all this white smoke shot out of the carb. I checked it and there was oil in the carb. The closest chamber to the windshield, i'm not sure which one that is. I assumed this to mean that it's way off time, but I can't see where. I don't even see the slot for the "lil thingy" that holds the cam pulley on. Is it behind the bolt?(you must remember, you are dealing with the mechanically DE-clined. The distributor seems right, I got the cam gear on up, it all seems to check out. But I was cut rather short when it started to snow on me. I live in Oregon for god's sake, it's not supposed to snow!!! I'll try to get at it some more tomorrow, maybe I can get it in the garage!

By ddechon --Maryland-- (12.78.118.9) on Tuesday, January 22, 2002 - 02:51 am:

I think a backfire usually means timing/ignition problems.

I wanted to say that it doesn't matter if you're mechanically de-clined. What's important is that you have a need and a will to fix your car. You can do anything...if you want to.

(if there's a will there's a way.)

I think Bruce has a good suggustion. You should make sure all of your ignition parts are aligned with your motor parts. That will get you in the ball park.

I know that was cheesy.
Darrell

By Anonymous (216.99.192.212) on Tuesday, January 22, 2002 - 10:09 am:

Your firing order is wrong. It should be 1342, and the distributor on the 1200 rotates counter clockwise when viewed from the top. Puff of smoke and oil means backfiring through the carb.

By Bruce Harmeling (66.20.228.46) on Tuesday, January 22, 2002 - 10:49 am:

could also mean the distributor is 180 degrees out, cylinder firing when the intake valve is open, meaning the distributor could be 180 out.

By Bruce Harmeling (66.20.228.46) on Tuesday, January 22, 2002 - 10:52 am:

Oh and by the way, the only way to learn is get that book out and jump in with both feet.

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Tuesday, January 22, 2002 - 07:47 pm:

Ok, if firing order on the 1200 is 1342, what's the firing order on a 1500? Is it the same? The book I have is really good, but it's a mechanics desk reference and it doesn't state some things that it should, like firing order. The distributor isn't out, unless it was built wrong, because it matches up perfectly, and with the vacuum pot on the side of it, it would be hard to put it in backwards. I'm jumping in with both feet, both arms, and most of my head, and i'm trying, i'm just getting frustrated.

By BritCivic (128.243.220.45) on Wednesday, January 23, 2002 - 04:20 am:

I think this is the simplest way of making sure you're firing at the right point AND in the right order:

Rotate crankshaft by a socket on crankshaft pulley bolt until the crankshaft pulley TDC marker aligns with the timing mark on the timing belt cover (I always do this by putting the car in top gear, handbrake off and jogging it backwards or forwards). This is the second notch on the pulley rotating the pulley anti-clockwise looking at the pulley bolt head. Then remove rocker cover and check that number one cylinder (cylinder closest to timing gear)valves are shut. Do this by trying to move the rocker arm up and down, if the valves are shut it will move by the valve clearance, if open it will all be tight with no movement. Also both cam lobes should be angled downwards. When this is done put the car in 1st gear and put the parking brake on to lock the crankshaft in position.
Then loosen the distributor clamp bolt and twist it until the rotor arm points at the bump on the side of the dizzy body (in lign with the contact breaker low tension wire clamp). If this is not possible with the amount of movement you have you will have to refit the distributor so that you can align the rotor arm and bump.
Now the ignition should be set to fire at number one cylinder top dead centre on the firing stroke. You can now tweak the timing by putting a 12v meter or bulb across the distributor low tension clamp and earth, nudge the distributor until 12v reads or the bulb lights. You need to tighten the clamp bolt when the distributor is in the position where the bulb has just lit.

Then all you have to do is check the plug lead order, the lead above the number one cylinder bump on the distributor body should go to cylinder one, the next (working anticlockwise looking from the distributor cap) should lead to the plug in cylinder 3, next to cylinder 4 and the last to cylinder 2, as Bruce says above (and assuming the firing order for a 1500 is the same, as you ask).

I've had your problem before after fitting the dizzy one tooth out, and this method always works for me. This is partly from memory, but I also double checked with my Haynes manual so it should be reliable!

Blimey! hope that wasn't too much info!!!

By Bruce Harmeling (66.20.228.34) on Wednesday, January 23, 2002 - 05:32 am:

Mike: just info for you, the distribtor body can be in right, it really only fits one way to seat it, but the rotor {the lil plastic thing under the cap} rotates, when you slide a distibutor in, you have to make sure that the rotor is in the right place, easiest way is like britcvc said is to refit the distributor, take the cap off and take the bolt out that holds the dist. in place, hold onto the rotor and slowly lift the dist. up, the rotor cap will turn a little, when it disegages from the cam you can turn the rotor and reseat it, it might take a few trys to get it right, if you start getting fustrated with it, sit back and drink a brew, then try again.

By electricks (203.62.158.1) on Wednesday, January 23, 2002 - 05:45 am:

that backfire definately means he's getting spark, petrol-air... i would go the 180deg out. it's easy to do, and that white smoke backfire deal sounds characteristic (to my experience). you aren't far now... good luck

p.s. i wish the anon person would express their view, not try to state fact without even seeing the damn thing. sounds like the sort of person that replies 'i know' before you even finish a sentence. also, i don't feel bad about hanging shit on this person, as they are remaining anon anyway.
also, i wouldn't like this to turn into a text argument, we're here to start this mans car!

By Darrell --Maryland-- (12.78.118.24) on Wednesday, January 23, 2002 - 08:30 am:

Here's what I did.

I used to SLIGHTLY take the distributer out then move the rotor while trying to feel for the next tooth on the gear. Moving in the one direction, you'll soon be on the right gear since there are only about 10 teeth on the little gear.

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Wednesday, January 23, 2002 - 07:46 pm:

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got it to start today. I'm so relieved, I was about to give up. I did have the plug order wrong. It was 1432 and not 1342. I have set the distributor the way everyone recommended above and it works great, in fact that's pretty much how my book says to do it. I think that i've got a few residual problems, since it seems to be idling rough, and I need to get a trip permit before I can put it on the road and open it up. Also, has anyone ever had a problem getting the exhaust pipe to meet the manifold? I think the flange that holds the two together is broken cause it's not attached to the pipe. Minor problems though as it's a least running!

By Bruce Harmeling (66.20.228.40) on Thursday, January 24, 2002 - 05:20 am:

Glad it is running, if the flange is broke off you will probably have to get a new section of muffler, just take the thing out and run it around the block. when it is running just loosen the bolt that holds the distributer in and turn it slowly, one way it will probably kill it, just turn it back the other way a little, start it up, and turn it again. it should smooth it out some.

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Thursday, January 24, 2002 - 07:31 pm:

The flange came off right at the top of the pipe, it fits if I could get it to stay in place. I think i'm going to have the muffler shop on the corner by my house just stick it back on there. Shouldn't be too hard for them to do or too expensive for me! I plan on driving it around a bit soon, but there are always cops around my place, and they will not hesitate to stop you and ticket you for something as small as expired tags on a vehicle your just driving around the block.

By errol (152.163.204.213) on Tuesday, January 29, 2002 - 08:59 pm:

Mike, before you go and spend some $ call me or mail me. I need to clean out some stuff...... You know....

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Wednesday, January 30, 2002 - 07:19 pm:

OK, New problems! Someone, anyone, please tell me if this sounds familiar and what I can do to fix it. The car starts, it idles, a little rough but not out of the bounds of normal. When you go to drive the car it acts like it isn't getting enough fuel. It's intermittant though. I've replaced the fuel filter, and run a bottle of fuel system cleaner in the tank, but it's still doing it. It will work fine for a little while, then you try to accellerate and it dies off. I hadn't notice it till today, but it seems to be worse when the headlights are on. Could it just be an elctrical issue? Is it possible the fuel pump is bad? Should I replace the gas tank? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Wednesday, January 30, 2002 - 10:55 pm:

ANYBODY???? ANY IDEAS??? PLEASE??

By Darrell --Maryland-- (12.91.116.9) on Thursday, January 31, 2002 - 02:47 am:

I'd look for broken vacuum lines or bad vacuum components.

By errol (64.12.107.39) on Thursday, January 31, 2002 - 05:11 am:

Is it a stock carb?
Vacume lines, sounds like a good place to start. It could be those carb selinoids also?
pull off the fuel line and put the 'y' into a jar and turn the ignition on to see how much fuel comes out. If it's just a piddlin, or a spewin.

By Don (209.181.52.83) on Thursday, January 31, 2002 - 06:43 am:

Did you set the timing with a timing light?
Setting it by just twisting it will cause the same problem you discribed. I have seen people blow up thier engines" just given the distributor a twist"! I even did it once- Oops, and the engine bucked and did all sorts of wierd things. went out and bought a good timming light. That was about 15 years ago.

By Darrell - Oz (203.46.138.66) on Thursday, January 31, 2002 - 01:25 pm:

Check inside your carby float bowl. If it has not been used for a long time there may be some 'gummy' residue from dried up petrol. Also check if the accelerator pump plunger seal has 'dried out' from lack of use or is damaged.

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Thursday, January 31, 2002 - 08:07 pm:

Yes, my first order of business is going and getting a timing light. I need one anyway, and this gives me the excuse. It is a stock carb, the vaccuum lines are all intact, and all vaccuum pots seem to be functioning. Here's the weird thing, it seems intermittant, I drove the car 20 miles today, very carefully, I got it up to 50 twice and it seemed ok, then it would sputter a bit again. I'm thinking it's fuel related, as in the fuel from the tank isn't flowing right? It will get gas for a while, then not for a few seconds, then it's fine again. I'm hoping I don't have to replace the fuel tank as they're about $400 from majestic honda. Oh, the carb bowls are all clean, spotless actually. The carb is almost new.

By Don (209.181.52.85) on Thursday, January 31, 2002 - 09:28 pm:

Do a few pressure and volume test.
The volume test is easy.
1. get a fire extinguisher and have it close by. 2. disable the ignition system by unhooking the primary (the small wires) from the coil 3. unhook the fuel line and stick the end in a glass jar or bottle and see how much fuel comes out in a 15 second spin on the starter. Have your kids or a friend turn the key while you hold the hose and bottle.

Fuel pressure will require you to buy a pressure gauge, no too bad at one of the large tool discounters.

By errol (152.163.195.201) on Thursday, January 31, 2002 - 10:20 pm:

just for kicks, look at the little white or black insulator that the ground goes to on the distributor and condensor, (where the wires go in and out right under the cap) . sometimes they get tightend too many times and crack and short at the worst times
and be a contortionist and pull your fuel cut off relay undr the dash (2x3 gold relay w/red plug end) and run a test on it (don't remember right now how to do it though)

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Thursday, January 31, 2002 - 11:43 pm:

Thanks for the tips, I'll try all of this tomorrow, provided the rain from hell has stopped. I've been soaked 3 days in a row!

By Don (209.181.52.101) on Friday, February 01, 2002 - 05:55 am:

I was not aware that the early civic had a fuel relay, most late model fuel injection Hondas have one(electic fuel pump), I looked at the factory wiring diagrams for a 1200 and did not see one. More specific info please, was this a CVCC only item? I did not notice one when I was pulling apart the 75 cvcc I had.

By John S. (207.94.232.28) on Friday, February 01, 2002 - 11:17 am:

Yes...CVCC only, but the wiring may be in the loom...I'm not sure.

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Friday, February 01, 2002 - 08:00 pm:

Good news, I bought a timing light, as theorized the timing was off a little bit, once I got it dead on I took it for a short drive(5 miles) and it drove rather well, nowhere near as many misses. When I got back I checked out the carb to make sure it was all in spec per my reference manual and set that to factory specs as well, idling much better, but now I have a coolant leak from one of the heater hoses. I can fix that pretty easy. Haven't checked anything else yet and i'm still very hesitant to put it out on the highway, but it's looking better!!

By errol (152.163.197.56) on Monday, February 04, 2002 - 07:16 am:

I thought it was for his 1500 ED1?
All the cvcc's I've had had them and Most needed replacing at one time or another.
Yes, I believe they're only on cvcc models as it's in my 77 1500's wiring diagram.

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Monday, February 04, 2002 - 07:36 pm:

It is for a 1500. Ok, I've gotten it out a few times and for the most part it's working ok, but today it wouldn't go over 45 for almost 15 minutes, then it would work for a while and then do it again. I'm going to take some money and get the electornic ignition conversion and the petronix coil since I thought I read in one of these threads that bad or incorrectly gapped points could cause something similar to this. I just don't understand. Today I sat there in it at idle and revved it up, it hit 5000 and then without letting off on the gas it would die down to about 3. You have to stop giving it gas for a second then give it more to get it back up to 5k, then it would do it again. Makes no sense to me, it's getting gas, it's in time, the carb is adjusted to spec. I'm getting frustrated again. It's like a phantom problem. Also, the fix of hollowing out the exhaust manifold seems to be allowing a lot of exhaust to leak from the manifold itself and not flow out of the exhaust pipe, almost like it's collecting in there and not going anywhere, which I suppose could cause this kind of problem too huh? No or poor exhaust flow is a bad thing right?

By Don (209.181.52.58) on Monday, February 04, 2002 - 08:19 pm:

More tools needed
The problem is that there are lots of thinks that could cause your symptoms. With out a solid base we cant be sure of anything. Fuel pressure, volume and an exhaust back pressure test is where I would start. Then get more info on what the fuel relay actually cuts off?? Is it just a idle speed solenoid or does it some how mess with the fuel delivery? The basic diagnostic principles are important. You don't know how many times someone has towed a car into the shop saying they checked this and that, only to find out that the problem leads back full circle to something they did not do (skiped) or check properly.

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Monday, February 04, 2002 - 08:39 pm:

When I check fule flow by detatching the fuel line and turning the ignition, should the car be warmed up? The fuel seems to flow ok if it hasn't been running alot, but it starts when the car is warm. Also, how do I check exhaust back pressure? I'll have to check the book about the fuel relay, I don't remember seeing anything about it in there, but I wasn't looking either.

By Don (209.181.52.58) on Monday, February 04, 2002 - 09:18 pm:

It really does not matter, cold or hot. Check fuel pressure too. To check back pressure you will need a fuel pressure guage, a drill bit and a short piece of small metal tubing (hobby shop). Drill a small hole in the exhaust pipe close to the manifold. The hole should be just big enough that you have to tap the small tube into place then hook up the fuel pressure guage and go for a drive with the guage under the wiper blade there should be no more than 2.5 psi present. Then remove the small tube and weld the hole up.
Or just unhook you exhaust at the flange and go for a spin, No restriction there. If the problem is gone then you can be pretty sure there is a problem with the exhaust.

By Don (209.181.52.58) on Monday, February 04, 2002 - 09:20 pm:

Did you forget to put that cvcc heat shield back on under the carb?

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Monday, February 04, 2002 - 09:42 pm:

Yes, I got the heat shield back in place, in fact, I got everything back on there. I followed all of the diagrams in my book to the tee. I may just take the exhaust pipe loose and try that, if I do it during the day they can't do anything to me about the noise. I need to get a new exhaust system too, I know there are a few small holes in mine already. I'm thinking pacesetter because impact has them for like 60 bucks, which sounds good to me. And to check fuel pressure I need a fuel pressure guage right?

By errol (64.12.102.23) on Monday, February 04, 2002 - 11:28 pm:

It sounds like a fuel delivery problem. If it starts it's not the cut-off. If it idles good it's not timing. I've got the same problem with that weber wagon. It'll start and run but give it gas for more than 3 seconds and it dies....(?) I'm gonna replace the pump this week

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Monday, February 04, 2002 - 11:38 pm:

I thought about the fuel pump too, but i'm just not sure. It's like it looses power and I can't get it to go anywhere, it was doing this when the timing was out but to a much more severe degree, I wonder if it could still be a little off. I'll most likely replace the pump soon too, I just don't want to spend the money if I can avoid it!

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Wednesday, February 06, 2002 - 09:02 pm:

I did the fuel flow test today, and I'm a little confused. I tried it two different ways, one, I cranked the ignition for about 15 seconds, pumped out 250 ml of fuel easy. Then I tried it the way it's described in my manual and it says to get the pressure to max then turn the key to on and let it flow for 30 seconds, it should put out 200ml of fuel on a good battery. Well, I tried that, and it pumped out fuel for about 13 seconds then it stopped, got about 75 ml total that way. Now, does this mean that the fuel pump is not working correctly or what? I also cleaned out the condesation chamber on the breather and the breather itself because they had stuff in them, then I ran more carb cleaner through and was rewarded with a giant cloud of white smoke from the exhaust, which I thought was ok, right? Then I drove it and it did the same thing, but i'm not sure if it was really low on fuel or not. Plus, the full tank I put in it lasted me 120 miles, not very good mileage at all!! Any more ideas?

By Don (209.181.52.10) on Wednesday, February 06, 2002 - 09:39 pm:

I would find out the fuel pressure, how do you know if its max pressure if you dont have a gauge?

Did you see the post about the header?

By mike adams (206.58.33.68) on Wednesday, February 06, 2002 - 09:46 pm:

Yeah, that's the second one too. It's weird, I finally got a solid line on one from someone([i'm not naming names!) and now two of them pop up for sale on e-bay! It's too weird. I suppose I have to go buy another tool now. Will it ever end?? I think I saw a fuel pressure guage for about 25 bucks though, which I can just about afford, if I pinch! It'll be two days before I can do that though. It seems those headers are going for about 90 bucks a shot, which seems fairly cheap, I wonder about the quality and why they're showing up all of a sudden. Someone on here maybe? Or maybe this guy is where they all went!