Subtopic	Posts		Updated
	Vintage Alum. Wheels	1		03/16 04:53pm
	Vintage Alum. Wheels	1		03/16 04:50pm

By Nate (207.224.233.9) on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 11:48 am:

I just got off the phone with a guy who is selling a side draft weber and intake for 150 bucks. no question I'll buy it if it's in good shape, but he's also selling some 4 into 1 headers (he says he doesn't know what brand) for 75. I'm sure I can talk him down and from what I understand small primaries are good along with obviously no rust, but is there anything else I should look for before buying these? I realize these are probably not the best headers but hand formed aluminum foil would probably flow better than the rusty manifold I've got right now. Also If you guys have any advice on a good exhaust set up that won't sound like a coffee can that would be good too. I'm suppossed to be getting 800 bucks back from the IRS so I figure exhaust,weber, a new cam (I'm open to advice), lowering springs, new shocks, and anything else you guys can come up with to make my money go as far as possible, would be cool. so let the ideas flow! ps. its a 78' 1200, bone stock.

By mo (24.69.255.202) on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 12:30 pm:

for a cam get intouch with the wizard ..

geoff@coltcams.com

By Farfignugen (12.110.136.90) on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 12:33 pm:

Nate, where is this guy located with the headers???

Check the ground clearance, cus most likely on 4-1 headers it'll be a tight squeeze when it curves around to the underside of the car.

There's a guy up here in Vancouver BC, that is going to making up a whole wack of brand new headers, probably running about $150 canadian. If anyone would be interested (there gonna be some beautiful headers) please list it here. He wants to know what kinda demand there'll be.

By Nate (207.224.233.9) on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 01:27 pm:

the guy with the headers is in Tacoma WA., close to me. I'm gonna take a look at them real close and if there's anything fishy I won't buy em for more than like 40 bucks. this guy just has a bunch of stuff he's trying to get rid of I think. anyway for 150 Cdn for new headers thats not bad at all. my biggest problem right now is figuring out a plan of attack when it comes to modifying my engine and until I know what kind of mods I'm gonna go with I won't know what kind of header I want, right? My point is I'm learning as I go and from what I understand it is cheapest to figure out what you want to achive and modify so everything comlements each other instead of looking at each mod individually. I'm rambling but again stock 1200 + $800 worth of ?=one of those nifty smiley faces if I knew how to make one.

By MichaelShort (64.12.96.13) on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 04:34 pm:

Hey Farf, I'd be interested in the new headers!

Mike

By mo (24.69.255.202) on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 06:29 pm:

me too farf ..

and nate .. since your near us canadians, why don't ya come up here for a weekend and swap in a 1300 EN1 motor? ..
you'll save money, gain a great amount of goof, have a more reliable motor .. colt cams is just a stones throw away from my buddies shop ..

.. and it all looks stock!!!!
.. AND you get to hang out with the civic folks up here!!!

let me know .. i'll try and find a motor for ya ..
mo

By Nate (64.210.248.135) on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 08:06 pm:

Mo, I just bought that weber sidedraft I mentioned earlier and it's pretty cool. I can't stop staring at it. got it with a caci manifold for 150 bucks, I'm gonna rebuild the carb though. it's a 40 dcoe 2 if any of you are wondering. Had to pass on the headers cause they were the ugliest peices of rusty shit I've ever seen. anyway I'd consider the 1300 swap as long as I can still use my new carb and manifold. you mentioned it looks stock though so is it basically just a 1200 motor designed to have a longer stroke? I might consider your offer cause I'd like to come up and get some headers anyway.

By Anonymous (63.225.204.189) on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 07:32 am:

hey mo does the 781200 head fit on the on the 1300 EN1 block

By Don (209.181.52.71) on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 08:00 am:

Why dont you just but the EN/EJ 1300 crank and rods into your eb3?

By john (209.180.140.224) on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 02:20 pm:

don isnt it easier to swap heads then to hone out and machine the block so on and so forth.

By Don (209.181.52.38) on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 03:24 pm:

You would probably be doing a rebuild on the 1300 anyway, right? Cause we all know that performance starts wuth a well sealed engine.

By Don (209.181.52.38) on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 03:25 pm:

Wuth ? What ever hapened to the spell checker?

By john (209.180.135.62) on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 11:02 pm:

well assuming you have a good runnig 1300 putting the EB3 head on the 1300 block is a better idea then pulling the pistons and crank to put in the EB3 block, isnt it? i havent done it yet but im toying with the idea cuase my EB3 bottom end is getting a bit tired and I have a nice running 1300

By Don (209.181.52.32) on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 11:31 pm:

You can do what ever you want, But.....
1.) A "good" running 1300 probably has way more leak down than you think.
2.) The EN and EB3 head are real similar.
3.) If a good running, reliable, and some what powerful engine is your goal (I'm assuming this is why you want a 1300) why not just pull every thing apart and make sure that everything is as good as you think it is. If the bearings are cherry (doubtful), then a hone job and rings are your only extra cost. Providing the other measurements are ok.

By Andrew Fatseas (203.102.206.62) on Sunday, March 10, 2002 - 03:50 am:

There is actually one advantage to using an EB3 head, which is the presence of a torque rod mount that is missing on the EN1. Makes things a little easier, particularly if you're not using an EN1 gearbox which has the EN1 torque rod mount...

By Nikolaj (130.161.173.224) on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 03:53 am:

The EN head does have seals for the exhaust valves, which I find a great advantage. The EB simply has none, and I've heard this is one of the reasons for oil-consumption! I have found no difference between the heads otherwise, though the EN is supposed to have a higher CR (8.7). Bolting them together is no problem. Think abount the mentioned mount for the engine and the mount for the exhaust which will not fit the older exhaust which sits against the engine. These are your only worries. I do have the idea that my old EB was a much happier revver, but the EN has loads more torque.

By Don (209.181.52.94) on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 06:13 am:

By using the EN/EJ crank and rods in the EB block you have all your original mounts and the exhaust seals are easy to add when you do a valve job. I would say the reason the EN has a higher compression was because of the extra air fuel pulled into the engine because of the longer stroke, not because of a difference in chamber volume. So your EB with the long stroke would have a higher than stock CR too.

By dumbass (209.181.131.59) on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 08:36 am:

k here what i decided to do. i want to rebuild the lower end in my EB3 (my head is new) but my delema is i dont know what pistons to use or where to get them for cheap? or if i should spend the money on the stroker set up. i can get the used crank and rods but i herd getting the right bearings is a nightmare. and im not sure who i can get to do good machine work on these engines here in AZ usa not that you guys could help with that anyway but maybe someone knows where i can order parts cheap and correct sizes. im so twisted right now stock pistons, GL1000, oversized uuug!

By Don (209.181.52.43) on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 05:50 pm:

What are you going to do with it? Street, Hi-po, race?? How much do you want to spend?

By Eric (208.60.186.227) on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 08:46 pm:

Hello everyone

Aren't the EB engines sleeved? Sleeved means that they have a steel liner in the bore. If this liner is removable, then couldn't one just put in new bore liners? I wouldn't think so since we are discussing boring and other machine work, but I have heard of people doing this to british cars like MG's........thanks......Eric

By errol (205.188.192.57) on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 11:06 pm:

That can be done but Honda liners can be a 'pain' to machine out and then reinstall another.

By dumbass (63.225.204.234) on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 11:42 pm:

Don. I just want to keep up with lets say a newer stock riceburner. nothing crazy but i dont wanna get pulled at a stop light by a daewoo or toyota echo if you know what im saying. i have the carb, nice head, cam, headers and ej trani. and it runs well but certianly not quick anymore.

By Don (209.181.52.41) on Thursday, March 14, 2002 - 05:40 am:

Eric, there is a difference between removing a "liner" and sleeving a engine. The steel "liner"
-is a sleeve, can not be totally removed in a honda 1200 engine. You can repair the bore with another sleeve after machining out most of the original, but will gain no bore advantage.


DA- I would order the 1st oversize stock replacement pistons(eb blocks are rare I guess?, this lets you use it again), as the 1300 crank will boost your compression up about a 1/2 point, and the over size will bost it up a little too. I would not go too high on the compression (gl1000) for a daily driver so as not to ping and rattle the engine with poor fuel. you will probaly end up about 3/4 higher in compression if you choose the Honda head gasket, the Felpro gasket is a little thicker. Anyone know of a aftermarket gasket with the same spec's as stock? I hear the Honda 1200 gaskets are being phased out.

By Nikolaj (130.161.173.25) on Thursday, March 14, 2002 - 09:02 am:

Don, I did do the math on the whole CR thing.
I have an EN4 with CR of 8,4 (out of a sport 1.3) and the stock one is 8,7. I thought like you do, that this was due to the longer stroke but putting the math to work it seemed my EN4 chambers had to be larger. I don't know if the EN1 and EB3 matched, could well be. But I think they simply shaved less off the head, the chambers are formed identical. Anyways, I shaved the head to the max-marks which I think are the same on all heads!

By Eric (208.60.186.87) on Thursday, March 14, 2002 - 07:05 pm:

Hey again Don

So I take it that after all the trouble of taking out the sleeve it'd just be easier to bore the cylinder? What are your opinions on crank grinding? I hear it's a taboo to grind a Honda crank because they're nitrided. Would it be ok to grind one if you can get it re-nitrided? I saw an ad once for a nitriding service, is this expensive?

By Anonymous (209.181.107.24) on Thursday, March 14, 2002 - 07:29 pm:

eric clifford performace might be able to help with the crank. they are in california you can ship it tp them

By errol (152.163.204.82) on Friday, March 15, 2002 - 07:12 am:

I've never had any problem polishing or grinding them to the next bearing oversize. You just need to get your oil clearence right on the main and rod journals.
I knew a guy out of Nashville that would grind them .010 under and then have them hard chromed plated back up to stock spec.
Back to the cylinders... If you have the 'meat' seft in yours just have it bored and honed for your rings, cast or chrome