There are no patch panels made for the 2009 Honda Fit, only for the older models.
I started off making a cardboard pattern the get the shape to reduce the amount of metal I would have to cut out.
Once I had the shape of the arch I marked which side was outside as to not fold the metal in the wrong direction in a later step.
I then scribed the pattern onto the sheet metal, then used a set of gauges to measure the distance from the lip to the first body line and made sure it was consistent throughout the wheel arch.
The lip was drawn first and the the outer body line.
I cut the arch out and made sure the flat metal pattern match the car.
I allowed a little extra lip and outer arch to allow for adjustments.
The lip on the fit is not a full 90 like the 1200 Civic, it does go from a 90deg bend to an almost V shaped arch in the very top. I believe this was the reason why is rots out as it holds the road salt and sand in that location. The car has been oiled several times to prevent rust but this area is easily washed away.
Once I start grinding and cutting away the exterior rotted area I will most likely have to make repairs to the inner wheel well.
I used tipping dies on my bead roller and pulled up on the outer edge of the arch to form a line for the 3/4 inner. I made a few passes taking my time and not the warp it unnecessarily. Once I had a line I used a body hammer and steel block in my vice to help roll the lip.
I then used a metal shrinker to pull the metal together after marking every 2” spacing on the inner lip.
Keep rechecking the shrinking with my bench top to make sure it’s pulling the panel flat. I continued to check the shape on the car when I got closer to the correct shape.
When it was close I started using a stretcher near the ends of the panel where it starts to bend towards the rocker panel and the bumper as these areas bend back in.
I cleaned the metal with acetone and sanded them down with 80grit for the final step prior to spraying the inner sides with copper weld through primer. To be done later before welding.
Restoration: How to make wheel arches
- Randy
- Administrator
- Posts: 1401
- Joined: April 7th, 2005, 9:06 pm
- Province/State: Ontario
- Hometown: Ajax
- Model: 1978 Hatchback
- Randy
- Administrator
- Posts: 1401
- Joined: April 7th, 2005, 9:06 pm
- Province/State: Ontario
- Hometown: Ajax
- Model: 1978 Hatchback
Re: Restoration: How to make wheel arches
Welcome to the Site.
- Randy
- Administrator
- Posts: 1401
- Joined: April 7th, 2005, 9:06 pm
- Province/State: Ontario
- Hometown: Ajax
- Model: 1978 Hatchback
Re: Restoration: How to make wheel arches
I started preparing for the new arch.
I removed the inner plastic panel, tail light and pulled the bumper corner away to prevent accidental burning or melting.
After removing the surface rust I discovered that the inner lip had completely rusted away.
So off I went to make an inner arch, not a precise as the outer panel.
I then cleaned up the rust on the inner wheel well with a wire wheel and then treated it with a rust neutralizer.
I painted the back of the repair panel with copper weld through primer and the front side with black rust paint.
All I have left to do after I welded it in is to trim the inner and outer lip to match and spot weld them together.
I removed the inner plastic panel, tail light and pulled the bumper corner away to prevent accidental burning or melting.
After removing the surface rust I discovered that the inner lip had completely rusted away.
So off I went to make an inner arch, not a precise as the outer panel.
I then cleaned up the rust on the inner wheel well with a wire wheel and then treated it with a rust neutralizer.
I painted the back of the repair panel with copper weld through primer and the front side with black rust paint.
All I have left to do after I welded it in is to trim the inner and outer lip to match and spot weld them together.
Welcome to the Site.
- Randy
- Administrator
- Posts: 1401
- Joined: April 7th, 2005, 9:06 pm
- Province/State: Ontario
- Hometown: Ajax
- Model: 1978 Hatchback
Re: Restoration: How to make wheel arches
Finally finished it off except for a bit of polish and stone guard touch up.
I stripped the paint off using the Eastwood roto stripper, it was so easy as I painted it with rust oleum paint to get it through the winter.
I used fibreglass body filler, took very little to level, did two coats and block sand with the long block Dura-Block. These blocks are great. If finished it up with two part putty from Napa. I then used Dupli Color high fill primer, a few coats, sanded down to 320.
I found the 3M narrow pre cut sand paper automotive clogged up easily. I switched to Gator and had no problems.
I put a light coat of White Rust oleum paint on and waited and anther. I moved on to the roof as I had some bad rust spots there too.
I waited a day and then water sanded everything up to the body lines and inside the doors. I ended up putting 3 coats of the rust oleum paint on the roof and probably 4 on the quarters as the spray nozzle messed up the paint. I took out one run easily with tacky masking tape.
I am amazed at the results with rattle cans. Probably used 5 cans of paint and 1 part can of primer.
I had to spray over the bumper as the car is a constant target in parking lots, I had just fixed it last year.
I have some Max clear coat, but it looks so good I am afraid it will ruin. I will probably wait until it’s completely cured, wet-sand and then clear. The paint is off match for sure, I need to polish the rest of the car as it has gone flat.
I stripped the paint off using the Eastwood roto stripper, it was so easy as I painted it with rust oleum paint to get it through the winter.
I used fibreglass body filler, took very little to level, did two coats and block sand with the long block Dura-Block. These blocks are great. If finished it up with two part putty from Napa. I then used Dupli Color high fill primer, a few coats, sanded down to 320.
I found the 3M narrow pre cut sand paper automotive clogged up easily. I switched to Gator and had no problems.
I put a light coat of White Rust oleum paint on and waited and anther. I moved on to the roof as I had some bad rust spots there too.
I waited a day and then water sanded everything up to the body lines and inside the doors. I ended up putting 3 coats of the rust oleum paint on the roof and probably 4 on the quarters as the spray nozzle messed up the paint. I took out one run easily with tacky masking tape.
I am amazed at the results with rattle cans. Probably used 5 cans of paint and 1 part can of primer.
I had to spray over the bumper as the car is a constant target in parking lots, I had just fixed it last year.
I have some Max clear coat, but it looks so good I am afraid it will ruin. I will probably wait until it’s completely cured, wet-sand and then clear. The paint is off match for sure, I need to polish the rest of the car as it has gone flat.
Welcome to the Site.