I have not been getting a whole lot of work on the rusty beast, been very busy doing dry-wall, plumbing and electrical work at my sons house. Some painting at my place and fixing my mother in-laws garage door botched by a contractor.
Also fixing up the little bit of rust and stone chips on my wife's Honda Fit. Meanwhile my daily driver suffers neglect! But she feeds me so that's ok.
I have removed the rest of the seam sealer inside the back of the car and assembled my new welding cart and dug out the bits to go on it and gathering the tools up hidden away in boxes around the house.
Last night I started converting over the lighting in my garage from low temperature High-output fluorescent to LED, I have to make up my own conversion kit on the fly.
I took one of the old circle line fluorescent fixtures and and mounted it on a board and wheels for rolling under the car, since I dropped my trouble light from the loft to the garage floor and shattered the handle, the light still works but the hooks are broken off.
Does anyone know what bolts to use to mount the motor on the engine stand? I am needing more floor space.
Not much happening on the these days, we had our first blast of winter but temperatures should go back up this week.
I modified my high output fixtures to run on led lights so I can keep the energy bills down. Today I replaced the weather stripping around the garage door to keep the snow from drifting in around the edges.
Oh and I re-purposed a fluorescent light to use under the car , threw some castors on and a box to keep it legal.
I was hoping to get out to the garage today but I have to deal with a ventilation problem or lack of in my workshop.
After seeing my doctor ⚕️ this week and looking at my blood under a microscope Question came up, is there any more mold that you brought home from the cottage? Well I don’t know ♀️ how but it loves Honda’s too.
My sympathy
I am doing research on the British railways of the 60s and 70s, and also plugging knowledge holes from earlier in the century by buying second-hand books.
Some of them are musty, some smell like old folks, some smell of smokers, and some are plain mouldy.
Ignoring the Honda mould generated in the garage, particularly on steering wheels, I just have to get on with it.
it does sometimes trigger my asthma though.
Mold can go airborne and travel about the house. I brought an antique wash stand from the cottage when it was sold and there was a lot of black mold on the ceiling due to a leak. It got into the wash stand and I brought it home and then I started getting more sick my ears and sinus blocked up making it difficult to breath and hear. It’s now in my blood breaking down autoimmunity. Other than that I feel great.
Airborne mold is known as mold spores and they float all around you everywhere, all the time, all day long. Airborne mold is how the plant spreads itself all over your home. Mold spores are similar to seeds and float around on the slightest of air currents. They settle on moist surfaces and given the right conditions begin to grow mold and produce millions of more mold spores which multiplies the airborne mold.
I have a little secret that I only share in "How to Get Rid of Black Mold" and that's how the airborne mold is the best time to eradicate it permanently. It is possible to render the spore useless and create a situation where the spore will actually work against all the mold it comes into contact with when it lands.
But for the most part airborne mold is not the mold that bothers you unless you have the specific allergy. The mold spores when allowed to multiply uncontrolled will eventually wear down your immune system allowing many other diseases to get a hold on you. Once this happens you need immediate action before the disease state becomes permanent; however, that's the tricky part about all of this. You may not know until it's too late.
Arm yourself with knowledge and how to eliminate the threat of airborne mold spores before they become your health statistic!
Mine is low anyway, caused by Hepatitis A in the 1970s and a failing thyroid gland [possibly linked], now bolstered up and stabilized with those damn medical additives.
Self-assessment and research found the thyroid issue a couple of years back, it having been missed by a medical system that treats the effects, not the causes.
I was getting progressively worse for 30+ years, trusting the docs to do their job.
This reminds me of a comedy from many years ago when the son brings dads car home and ran out of gas when he shut the car off.
Dad opens the gas door and sticks his sons head in to the gas tank and asks what do you see?
With an echo nothing dad! I now know what he saw, yeah nothing, I took pictures to prove it!
The pistons
Since I was feeling small I pulled some spark plugs and checked out a couple of the cylinders and pistons.
Rocker Panel
This shot is from inside the drivers rocker panel, note the yellow bit in there.
Then this one shows the rust on the inside of the front where the bumper shock mounts inside the engine bay but underneath. I may have to open this up to make repair.
Not a whole lot of work getting done due to the cold weather and the back door to the garage is frozen shut. I had been fixing a lot of stuff on the site though. Hope that counts.
I picked up some new brass w/p bullet connectors to fix a lot of the wiring that's corroded and broke during dis-assembly.
Princess Auto Bead Roller Kit- with Mandrels. Forms steel up to 18 gauge and aluminum up to 16 gauge. is perfect for adding firmness and strength to your project's metal floor panels and firewalls. You can easily create beads and flanges for strength, style or both.
I am just waiting for my Cleco holding kit, used for holding sheet metal in place while spot welding.
Cleco Temporary Fastener for Body Panel Repair Work
Cleco fasteners (sometimes spelled “cleko”) are installed in pre-drilled holes to hold materials in place; those same holes are usually used to install the permanent rivet or weld later, with the cleco rivet being removed prior to permanent installation. Cleco fasteners expand on the opposite sides of the work pieces, then draw and clamp them together. They help maintain the proper alignment for permanent rivet installation, and prevent distortion.
It’s a bit warmer today, took a few minutes to draw up a couple of patterns to make some repair panels.
One to go in the back seat over the suspension radius rod. This one will for the drivers side. This seems to be a weakened area in the bottom, have you ever bounced up and down and see that area go up and down too. I don’t understand why that area was designed flat and soft. The passengers side has a crack with rust small holes on the spot welds.
Finally made good use of my shears and bead roller.
I am not sure what you might be thinking. Oh! I mentioned RUSTY in my post and like a 🧞♂️ genie here you are in a puff of smoke and out of the bottle materializes Pete.