Project Psylocibe 1975 Honda Civic 1200

[Thor]

On our cars, we run a twin-core wire from the thermoswitch to the dash.
A wire is attached to each terminal and to each switch terminal, the switch being internally illuminated when grounded.
This places the switch in parallel with the thermoswitch, giving the option of a normal system or manually switched option.
A wire from either switch terminal to a remote warning light, then to frame [earth] will enable a decent warning light to be
fitted, this would warn that the fan was still running as the circuit feed is permanent, not switched via the ignition.

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Sorry that I lost the info in the translation. Running a 2 sided switch the dim bulb (yes, come to think of it, a bit like myself...)routed to the lighting curcuit, the 2nd position run to the 'day-lamp or 'parking lamp curcuit , Low headlamps if you are in CA as the lights must be on if you turn on the windshield wipers (Honestly). Or course the original use to turn on the fans in warm weather.
I do hope you understand what I am trying to make easier to swallow. Yes, Pete, you don't even have to ask, soon...
=Bill

[Psylocibe]

If you take the T/Stat out and then install a larger radiator you are now pushing the coolant through the system faster than it can cool. Put a 170 T/Stat back in place and you will be right where you want to be. I like using a lighted, 3 position Toggle switch, so I can run it off (bad idea), in the normal position where it is only on when the fan is on, (good for monitoring) and fnally in the full on postition, fan on all the time. Yes, it is needed it's California out here...

I understand the theory of what you are saying, so I won't argue that. I'll just explain the actual real-world driving symptoms I've had since I've been done the cooling system tinkering. THe second radiator is identical in size and volume to the first, the blue Civic was actually a later model 1200 as well (Good call EvoCivic on the parts I pulled that didn't fit, I didn't know that even the gas cap was different!) But placing the two radiators against eeach other they are exactly the same.

Radiator 1 + Tstat: heats up very quickly, within a minute or 2. Idles at 215*, cools off to possibly 190* based off of estimated temps from pyrometer checking as long as I'm driving quickly and air is flowing.

Radiator 2 + Tstat: heats up very quickly, idles around 215*, gauge continues to climb higher as long as the vehicle is running regardless of speed. Appears to heat soak and be unable to cool effectively.

Radiator 1/no Tstat: heats up much slower, possibly around 7-8 minutes to reach 215*, cools off on the freeway.

Radiator 2/no Tstat: heats up much slower, but still faster than #1. Maybe 4-5 mins to hot, and heat soaks.

Since I have a spare, and I could see that they both do look crusty inside that there's possibly diminished cooling capacity due to age and deposits. Regardless of the case, I'm gonna get one of them sent out for recoring anyways.

As far as fan switch wiring, is it pretty much just hot full voltage from the battery, to fuse, to switch, to fan? Should I wire up a relay if I hook up a toggle to force the fan on if it's not staying on when too warm? I'm not sure I like running fully loaded hot wire all the way back from the fan to the cabin.

[tviracing]

hi
ive been following your posts and must say its been like reading a good book with pictures :D
it shows that how much fun it can be playing with these little cars
im enjoying the "trip" and long may this continue
interesting user name there

slim

[Psylocibe]

Welding's a way's off, for several reasons. Firstly, this my only car, and a daily driver/rolling project. I have no access to welding equipment, nor have I ever had experience with it. So that limits me to a body shop, which is $$$. I'm a mechanic, so I've got the skills and know how to keep her running, but I'll be the absolute first to admit that I don't know everything which is why I will be turning here for help. Right now my budget is slim, but reasonable, so I'll be focusing more in maintenance and upkeep long before body work, there's no sense in having a good looking car I can't drive

Thanks for the encouragement so far, and the comment about my username TVI haha

[Thor]

There are 2 temperature senders for our cars. One reads higher than the other.
Anybody remember the appropriate details.
This sounds like when I had a mis-match a few years back.

[Psylocibe]

I'd consider that if I hadn't physically confirmed temperatures with an infrared thermometer at hitting 215* at idle, and an estimated 220+ with the second radiator. I just don't think that it should be running that hot, even with what I've read on this site about the inadequacies of the stock cooling system.

edit: not trying to come off as argumentative and not listening to suggestions, I'm just trying to keep my engine from sustaining damage long term. I feel like that it can't be good for the oil life or head gasket.

[Thor]

edit: not trying to come off as argumentative and not listening to suggestions, I'm just trying to keep my engine from sustaining damage long term. I feel like that it can't be good for the oil life or head gasket.

I certainly have not taken your responses as argumentative, indeed a nicely considered set of actions so far.

It sounds as if a re-core could indeed be needed, but have you considered a reverse-system flush, using a garden hose connected onto one of the heater pipes to reverse the flow, taking the 'stat out helps even more. the water will come out of the un-connected end, so watch out!
The amount of detritus that comes out is surprising and may well improve the system sufficiently.
I do this every year after the winter lay-up and find it worthwhile.
Pete

[Psylocibe]

List of upcoming projects as finances become available: need to replace pretty much every suspension bushing I can locate, a clutch will need to be done at some point as it is at the max adjustment on the cable, the transmission will likely be swapped to a 5 speed as I find 2nd gens in the yards fairly regularly. Will I need to make hybrid CV axles? I've read conflicting information, but at this time am still interested in retaining the original 4x120 wheel spacing. The right front brake rotor is so warped you can visually see it while turning the rotor by hand, the right side tie rods are worn out and the steering rack boots are disintigrating. Motor mounts will be replaced for PM all the way around. And of course I'll be keeping an eye out for early parts. Like a spare carburetor, mine's pretty messed up and I like keeping the original air cleaner so am not interested in a Weber swap just yet.

[Thor]

Using our [UK] 2ndgen 5-speeds in place of either 2-speed Hondamatics or 4-speeds, we've never had an issue, and I am pretty certain that there is none. Just make sure that it's 2ndgen civic, not another type, such a hydraulic clutch model.
It is a really worthwhile upgrade as it drops the revs nicely at highway speed.
Mind, without a bit more grunt, you may find a need to downshift for anything more than a slight upgrade under 60mph, the engine is off-camshaft.

[Psylocibe]

Took pictures of the rust for documentation. It's got some, but not an obscene amount. I do know the old adage of once you begin fixing rust you always find more but I've gone over the underside fairly thoroughly and this is what I've found.

Driver's rocker.



Below rear hatch.



Driver's rear floor board corner. This appears to be the only rust on the floor boards as seen from inspecting from below as well as up top.



Generally speaking the car is very straight though.



Noticed this tag on the seat belts, which is cool. Early '75? Is that how they they did the model years?



Also on the list of parts I'm hunting for, both rear window seals and the passenger rear window latch only, the glass and hinge are fine.