Here are the finished pics of the trailer wheels all clear coated. Yes, they are Watanabe's but I needed Panasport caps to match the wheels on my car The outer edge is normally a machined finish but I sanded and polished it before I taped them up for paint.
I cleared the brake drum too as its pretty noticeable behind the wheels
As per above pics. Got back into the trailer build. Began working on the top. Aluminum sheet metal trimmed to match the top.
I am using some alloy u channel pop riveted on the undersight to give it some rigidity. I should have went with a heavier gauge sheet but I plan on using stryrofoam glued to the top which will make it super rigid. From there I hope to contour the foam board with a palm sander to match the contour of a first Gen roof. I think it will work.
Then finally I will have a seamstress sew up a vinyl top with stainless snaps.
More on the styrofoam once I go through the messy task of sanding it down.......
As per above pics. Got back into the trailer build. Began working on the top. Aluminum sheet metal trimmed to match the top.
I am using some alloy u channel pop riveted on the undersight to give it some rigidity. I should have went with a heavier gauge sheet but I plan on using stryrofoam glued to the top which will make it super rigid. From there I hope to contour the foam board with a palm sander to match the contour of a first Gen roof. I think it will work.
Then finally I will have a seamstress sew up a vinyl top with stainless snaps.
More on the styrofoam once I go through the messy task of sanding it down.......
I think I am just going with canvass over the top of this. It would make a great mold for an actual tonneau cover bit it would be too tough to get a good seal with the contour (gaps) of the shell. For now I am adding this to get the right curve under the canvass
I went with a stainless piano hing across the front to open it up. I have thought of using the top as a mould for a fiberglass tonneau but water leakage is an issue as the shell of the trailer is not entirely flat along the 4 sides.
I am using an adhesive and some plastic bolts countersunk into the foam to ensure the foam stays adhered to the aluminum. I tested it on scrap and its very secure...its mainly to add a great deal of rigidity to the aluminum.
For the marine vinyl - its boat canvass...I will use dark grey and my neighbour who is doing the work may add some thin padding if needed. It will sit flush on the foam so all contours will be maintained and then some stainless snaps around all four sides to keep it pulled tight which will keep water out, keep the shape and ensure it does not blow off!!! The boat canvass is very good stuff although its pricey!
I finished the wiring for the car and trailer. I found that by using 2 led lights (signal bulbs) it does not overload the stock lighting. I already have one of the new flashers but was finding with all the headlights, brake lights and signals on it was a bit too much and the signal lights were not happy. Lower watt LED bulbs in just the trailer lights solved it completely. Works like stock now on the car and trailer. I soldered and shrink wrapped all the connections and ensured I have good grounds off each light as this is always a problem with trailers it seems.
Last edited by Kurt on February 3rd, 2018, 1:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
I am now working on the hitch for the car these days.
Being a '78 I am contending with the pressurized oil filled bumper shocks so no welding to those! You can see in the photo above I am using the trailer to mock up the hitch as they have the same back end!
I have used round stock to make new bumper mounts. This of course required new mounting plates too which I made out of 1/8" steel plate. These took a while to fabricate to ensure the mounting holes all lined up. I also added an additional one at the bottom of the plates so that I can add an extra bolt that I will tie into some 1/8" steel angle iron brackets that I will weld to the bottom of the unibody frame. I may add an additional bolt to tie into a small plate welded on the inside of the spare tire well as insurance.
The small 1" receiver will be mounted to the cross member and peak out just below the bumper. I really wanted to make the actual receiver removable but with so little clearance I won't be able to install enough brackets to bolt it too while ensuring its rigid and strong. So the receiver will be welded on as most are. I do plan on removing the hitch assembly when not towing the trailer and re-installing the stock bumper mounts anyway....bit more work but I don't want to see the receiver when not towing a trailer.
I have it just tacked for now. My little 110 welder is a little light for the thicker plate so I will have it all welded up when done