Parts list for rear disc conversion

Brake Upgrades, Suspension, Information
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79cord
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handbrake actuator

Post by 79cord »

I'm not sure what I based this on. Civic, Accord or Prelude.
I think it may have been a left-over from my first attempt at 4x100 with a heavily revised '82 Accord drum.

Either way I took the stock part, cut the 'drum' end off leaving the 'leg' which braces against the calipers actuator, and drilled & tapped a hole in it for the bolt securing it to the calipers actuator through the original brake cable mtg.

I also ground a little off the 'claw' holding the end of the transverse cable for extra clearance to the strut when the cable pull rotates it in that direction.

I was worried about the clearances to the strut & having enough rotation to work it, & for quite a while thought I'd be making 'custom length' cables but there was enough adjustment in the std. cable so every thing worked out.

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Post by jonathan_ed3 »

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to post here for searchability in the future.

I just finished installing some cables from a CRX after doing the rear disc conversion- what a PITA! Especially trying to route them so that they don't bind. Had to drop the tank and go around/over it. I couldn't remember how Justin said he routes them (and couldn't find it in the search either, but I KNOW he has posted it somewhere), so I just went for it. It's working, but was much more time consuming than I would have preferred!

It would have been so much easier keeping the stock cables and making an adapter plate (much like the adjuster 79cord posted - would be awesome if we could figure out what car that originally came from!) at the brake caliper to activate the parking brake. Would make for a cleaner install too without having to drill holes in my floor.

I was actually thinking before I dug into the rear disc install about how easy that would be, and that maybe I should keep all the stock stuff in tact - but I got ancy and cut the stock cables and just yanked it all out.

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Post by Joey F. »

Thanks for popping this thread up again and will help out greatly in my project!

I was just confused a bit on below...
Justin wrote: You must machine the outer lip to accept the 1st gen outer bearing, and then place washer's between the new outer bearing and the original inside bearing( this is required so the bearings are not crushed when tightned)
You also need to double up the factory collar, in order to center the rotor in the caliper(#1.. 5th pic) Image
:D
Im not sure what outer lip to machine on the hub to accept the 1st gen "outer bearing"...What number is the 1st gen outer bearing? Im assuming it is #12 in the above picture?

Other than that everything seems pretty self explanatory.
Loving Hondas from all generations!

Bill
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Post by Bill »

Yeah, 12 is the bearing, the machined surface is the seat for that bearing on the 2nd gen hub, not pictured...

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zxdriver99
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Post by zxdriver99 »

Image
You must machine the outer lip of part #1 to accept the new sealed outer bearing(part #6304AR RSR, replaces original civic outer bearing, now no dust cap needed)

Image
#12 is the original civic outer bearing, this is replaced by the new sealed bearing previously mentioned.
#2 is the factory spacer. I had the small end machined so it fits between the 88 civic original inner bearing and the new sealed outer bearing, preventing the two bearing from being crushed together.

I also used the originl civic collar#1, but I got some washers that matched inner and outer dimensions from the local John Deer Dealer to be able to center the rotor in the caliper bracket easier(sorry no pic)

I hope this update helps with some of the confusion(I was certainly confused)

Thanks to Justin for his great work. I carried his pics and posts to about ten different shops to end up with these revisions. I would NOT have accomplished this without his valued insight

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Post by jonathan_ed3 »

zxdriver99 wrote: (part #6304AR RSR, replaces original civic outer bearing, now no dust cap needed)

I hope this update helps with some of the confusion(I was certainly confused)

Thanks to Justin for his great work. I carried his pics and posts to about ten different shops to end up with these revisions. I would NOT have accomplished this without his valued insight
Do you have any other part number for that sealed bearing? I don't see it listed in any type of catalogue or bearing list.

If I understand it right, you did exactly like Justin did only you found a bearing that was sealed? Are the dimensions the same? Or did you have to machine your setup to a different spec than he did?

The reason I ask is because I currently have mine setup per Justin's specs; wondering if I can just swap out to this sealed bearing and be good to go.

Thanks for the insight!
Eduardo I. Nieves Davila wrote:I thought the rear discas and hubs from 88-95 where all the same?
As far as I know, they are. The only difference I believe is that the factory disc hubs have the spots to put the rotor retainer bolts, whereas the drum hubs do not. At least as far as the aftermarket units go, they are all identical. At least between 88-91. And I'm fairly confident that 92-95 are also the same.

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Post by Justin@work :) »

Crap.. all this talk of the sealed outer bearings.. I thought I had posted it in the past.. but from ZxDriver's post it seems I had not :lol: I found a sealed bearing aswell (prob about 6months ago.. when we fixed peters leaky caliper) I'll have to dig up the box for the bearing :roll:
old skool rules... new skool technology :)

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zxdriver99
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Post by zxdriver99 »

The sealed Bearings I used are the exact same dimensions as the original 1200 bearings. That is to say I can pop the sealed ones out and put in the old 1200 bearings instead. My machinist just measured my 1200 bearings, wrote down a number on a piece of paper and said "go get me two of these." he didn't even look it up. He had the machining done before I got back with the bearings. he just tapped them in with a brass mallet. there are three main industries around here, agriculture, food prossesing, and oil patch, I guesse these must be a common bearing for him to know the measurements by heart.
I will try to call national bearing tomorrrow to find another part number

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zxdriver99
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Post by zxdriver99 »

jonathan_ed3 wrote:Did you ever get a different part # for that sealed bearing? I still haven't found anything on it.
no but I'm in the middle of building another rear disk swap for some one on here, and i need to get two more sets of those bearings. As soon as I get them I will post the part numbers

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zxdriver99
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Post by zxdriver99 »

jonathan_ed3 wrote:Did you ever get a different part # for that sealed bearing? I still haven't found anything on it.
Ok peoples i got the new sealed outer bearings for the rear disk swap

The SKF brand part number is 6304-2RSH/C3 the web site for them is skf.com.

not all the 84-87 prelude calipers are the same. make sure you find out what year car you get your calipers from. I had an H of a time finding the pads for one of the sets I got. I assumed they were the same. There are a bunch of different sets of pads listed

I figured out what Justin was talking about in his write up on the rear disk swap in regards to the 88 and up rear hub.

he was saying to place a few washers between the new outer bearing and the original 88 hub bearings. I hadn't originally realized that:
A). there were two bearings in there and,
B). that Justin didn't remove the outer one

I removed the original outer bearing from inside the hub and then machined the outer lip for the new sealed outer bearing. I then machined the original 1200 bearing spacer to fit between the new sealed outer bearing and the original 88 inner hub bearing.

so, Justin's way is easier, two less parts to machine.

sorry for the long write up but I felt the clarification could be useful.

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