Project Steph's 1978 Honda Civic 1200

[EvoCivic]

Do not buy a pickle fork or any other separator, I have 6 joint breakers and all will damage Honda dust seals.

A tuning fork (pickle fork as you call it) is an essential part of any toolbox :!: 101 uses for levering, separating and just generally forcing things into/out of place :twisted: . About the only thing it's not that great for is its actual intended purpose (separating balljoints) because, as you say, it tends to destroy the boot 8) .

[Jonathan]

Why split the ball joint at all? If you have to remove the knuckle take out the inboard control arm bolt and disconnect the radius rod. Take the knuckle and control arm off as an assembly. You can work on it on a bench if you need to get the control arm out at that point. Rock Auto lists the control arms with ball joint for about $40 USD each if you run into damage. Are they available over there? I've heard different parts of the world have different parts availability.

[Steph]

Why split the ball joint at all? If you have to remove the knuckle take out the inboard control arm bolt and disconnect the radius rod. Take the knuckle and control arm off as an assembly. You can work on it on a bench if you need to get the control arm out at that point. Rock Auto lists the control arms with ball joint for about $40 USD each if you run into damage. Are they available over there? I've heard different parts of the world have different parts availability.

Will that give me enough? I reckon you're right Jonathan, because I changed the radius rod bushes using the same technique, and the axle almost dropped completely out on the LHS (accidentally!). That said, if all it takes is a smack with a decent sized hammer, then that sounds like just the ticket for me!

p.s. Linc told me to drop the ball joint to get access, so I figure that's the way it's done in 'The Trade'... hopefully I wasn't mixing up his instructions with those used by those in the 'Rough Trade', you know, like you'd find at the Blue Oyster Bar, for example. :shock: (my guess is only 2 people will get this)

Oh yeah, I still have 2 spare control arms and ball joints. The ones fitted were replaced about 3 or 4 years ago, so still good... I hope! :P

[Steph]

Do not buy a pickle fork or any other separator, I have 6 joint breakers and all will damage Honda dust seals.

A tuning fork (pickle fork as you call it) is an essential part of any toolbox :!: 101 uses for levering, separating and just generally forcing things into/out of place :twisted: . About the only thing it's not that great for is its actual intended purpose (separating balljoints) because, as you say, it tends to destroy the boot 8) .

I have a dreaded jimmy bar, or pry bar, which is the same one that jumped off the shelf and Starsky and Hutched its way across my hood/hood. The hood has since been repainted, only to have the paint burned off during a engine-bay fire... which reminds me, I must grab a fire extiguisher today while I'm picking up my engine crane and load leveller from Supercheap. $235 for the lot! (not including fire extinguisher).

[Thor]

I take my time on dismantling, rarely using hammers on anything, except where intended.
I have 3 fork separators of differing sizes, none have been used in the last few years.
I only use them in desperation, and then sparingly.
I do agree that they are handy to have in the toolbox, they are very good at holding a service manual open in windy conditions. :roll:

[Steph]

they are very good at holding a service manual open in windy conditions. :roll:

I use a Haynes manual for this. It makes itself useful as a wheel chock too! :P

[EvoCivic]

I do agree that they are handy to have in the toolbox, they are very good at holding a service manual open in windy conditions. :roll:

Definitely one use . As well as levering the lower control arms into place to get the inner bolt in, removing hubcaps (on cars that have the horrible things), in the Hilux you can wedge it under the throttle and clutch pedals to hold the brake pedal down in order to check trailer light operation when there is nobody else around, levering open paint cans, wheel chock on flat ground, bash bent guards back into shape when you can't find a hammer, lever stubborn cylinder heads off (not recommended if you don't want to damage the head and/or block) etc. Many, many uses :D

[Jonathan]

Will that give me enough? I reckon you're right Jonathan, because I changed the radius rod bushes using the same technique, and the axle almost dropped completely out on the LHS (accidentally!). That said, if all it takes is a smack with a decent sized hammer, then that sounds like just the ticket for me!

p.s. Linc told me to drop the ball joint to get access, so I figure that's the way it's done in 'The Trade'... hopefully I wasn't mixing up his instructions with those used by those in the 'Rough Trade', you know, like you'd find at the Blue Oyster Bar, for example. :shock: (my guess is only 2 people will get this)

Oh yeah, I still have 2 spare control arms and ball joints. The ones fitted were replaced about 3 or 4 years ago, so still good... I hope! :P

Should be more than enough. That's the way I have replaced axles in the past. There is plenty of play in the strut once the LCA and the radius rod are disconnected. If you need more, take the brake caliper off and remove the knuckle. As long as you don't have excessive rust, it should be rather easy!

[TREVORM]

wow! looks great Steph!

[Steph]

I don't feel well... I think my Civiphilis might be coming out of remission... :?