Project Blue-Civic-Hybrid 1975 CVCC Wagon

[Blue-Civic-Hybrid]

Well, Photbucket is holding my pics hostage right now, so I will upload pics to update this thread.

Currently I'm about to embark on a cross country move from Florida to California due to my retirement from the Navy. Once I get settled I will begin more updates on my wagonce I can start deciding on what engine to swap into her and start working on the body hopefully after that.

[Blue-Civic-Hybrid]

Testing for uploading pics... Instead of re-jetting the Weber 32/36 carburetor, I'm gonna try this fuel pressure regulator since i think the previous owner installed bigger jets. The re-jetting kit was gonna cost about $70 and this was only $30. Hopefully this stops the excess fuel fouling my plugs and lets me drive this bad boy!

[EvoCivic]

A fuel pressure regulator isn't going to fix jets that are too large. It will fix a flooding issue if you have too much pressure and fuel is getting past the needle valve when it shouldn't be.

[Blue-Civic-Hybrid]

True but I see this as a cheaper alternative for now until I figure out the problem. One of my buddies swears by this thing and how it cured higher RPM bogging on his carburetor setup.

It's worth a shot...

[Blue-Civic-Hybrid]

Well, I installed my new distributor, new cap, 4 new plugs, and new rotor. Installed my fuel pressure regulator behind my fuel filter and promptly caused my filter to leak excessively. Then I put my FPR directly to the main fuel line with the filter afterwards (after I rebuilt the filter) and all is well. Dialed the FPR to 2.5 PSI and started up the car but ran super rough, decided to try and drive it around my neighborhood and promptly broke down 2 blocks away.
Got towed back to my house by some kind neighbors and now it won't start or idle correctly.
I will add pics later ...

[Blue-Civic-Hybrid]

Pics as promised: My wagon apparently has a 1979/1980 EK engine from a Prelude/Accord with a 5 speed transmission. I had her running and idling (badly) 2 days ago then she bogged out and died. I thought it originally had something to do with my ignition system so I replaced everything except the plug wires. Now I'm thinking either carburetor or somehow my timing is off.

I still don't know anything about the ancient ignition system with the resistors up there in the corner of the engine bay.

[trouts]

you could try a inline adjustable spark tester to check the quality of your spark while the engine is running they are fairly cheap and you can also test the spark with it on the starter motor just adjust to the right gap, follow the instructions the more gap the spark will jump the stronger it is, at lest then you can say spark is right so now I can move on to the timing I hope you get it going good soon.

[Thor]

You are aware that the engine runs counter-clockwise?
Looking down on the timing marks, this makes top dead center to be on the right, not left as convention.
Sorry if I am telling grannie how to suck eggs, but this has been the source of much confusion over the years, and originates from the design being rooted in motor-cycles.
Just trying to help
Pete

[EvoCivic]

You are aware that the engine runs counter-clockwise?
Looking down on the timing marks, this makes top dead center to be on the right, not left as convention.

Actually, that's not quite correct. As it's an iron block engine, the timing marks are on the flywheel. Looking from the gearbox end the TDC mark will actually be the left mark, not the right.

[Thor]

Cheers for the correction, forgot that.
Never had the advantage of having to deal with one. A couple of near-misses, though. They made great boat-anchors back in the 70s and 80s as we fitted replacement EBs and ENs into 4-doors over here.
Higher capacity is not always the answer for performance. Our view was that the alloy engines would produce more power because of superior porting and manifolding from the factory. stop-watches confirmed that.