Project Bob78CVCC

[bob78cvcc]

Bob, you've come this far in preserving a piece of automotive history. Maintaining an original (or as close to it) drivetrain keeps closest to the spirit of that restoration.

While a "direct" swap to an EK/EL would give you a little more power (and reliability?), you would still have an engine of the same vintage. However, such a swap would give you the flexibility to return to an ED later on without much hassle if you changed your mind.

On a side note, would you consider picking up another 1st Gen specifically to go all out with? :twisted:

Brandon, any swap with this restoration will be period original. I'm just having a tough time in my mind justifying rebuilding the original engine (230,000??? miles) vs. replacing with another engine. The only positive I can see keeping the original is that I know exactly what will be replaced and that the numbers match. I just didn't realize how bad the internals on this thing were. :shock: :evil:

[Brandon74]

What does the engine builder say? Can they rebuild yours "like new", even considering its current state?" Do you have access to an EK/EL in better shape to work with?

With everything you've put in thus far, I'd think either way you'll want a fresh engine in that bay. ;) I also think no one would fault you for putting a little Accord in your Civic. If you're rebuilding anyway, maybe it's time to upgrade.

[Steph]

I still say, keep it original. The only engine that can't be rebuilt is one that has no material left for machining, they can always reharden the crank journals if need be, or you could find a good crank to substitute the old on with. First thing to do is buy this Japanese camshaft ASAP, it's a bargain!!! Repco parts are almost exclusively sourced from Japan.

Also, the seller is a member here...

CVCC-New-Repco-Brand-Camshaft

[bob78cvcc]

I still say, keep it original. The only engine that can't be rebuilt is one that has no material left for machining, they can always reharden the crank journals if need be, or you could find a good crank to substitute the old on with. First thing to do is buy this Japanese camshaft ASAP, it's a bargain!!! Repco parts are almost exclusively sourced from Japan.

Also, the seller is a member here...

CVCC-New-Repco-Brand-Camshaft

Steph, I'd love to keep it original - the camshaft lobes etc are actually good - the part you show is for a 75 - most 75 CVCC engine parts are different (not sure about the camshaft). The engine is quite rebuildable - mostly needs new bottom end stuff (rods, bearings, bore, pistons). Need to make a decision soon. The Mrs. would like her half of the garage back before Winter arrives.

[LALAMAHINA]

Bob, the EC could use the same manifolds as your CVCC.

You could also use the 1300 EJ head on your 1500 ED bottom. That would give you 4 exhaust ports and 10.4 compression ratio with a stock bore and 10:5 w/20 over dish pistons or 11:8 with 20 over flat pistons. :idea:

[LALAMAHINA]

Excuse me Bob, overlooked your exhaust manifold is a 2 port, so you'ed have to use a 2nd gen 4 exhaust port manifold on the EC/EL head.

[bob78cvcc]

Narrowed it down to the 78 ED CVCC or the 78 EF CVCC. Leaning on keeping it the 1500 CVCC.

[Brandon74]

Is there much advantage to going with an EF?

[Bill]

Its a noticeable difference, pulls better at lower rpms. I wouldn't pull an engine down just to do it, but if I was there anyway I would look to put in a 1600 rotating assy. I used to do it to any car I had that was getting the engine rebuilt, but that was also when the total cost was around$50 to pick up the pieces and they were plentiful...

[bob78cvcc]

Its a noticeable difference, pulls better at lower rpms. I wouldn't pull an engine down just to do it, but if I was there anyway I would look to put in a 1600 rotating assy. I used to do it to any car I had that was getting the engine rebuilt, but that was also when the total cost was around$50 to pick up the pieces and they were plentiful...

Bill, it looks to be a straight in swap. However, do you know if the same attachment points and mounts for the AC and Alternator are on the EF block and head? Anything else from the EF that should be swapped over?