Rear Disc Brake Conversion
stay with your original stub axle (CVCC/1200 are the same)
you get yourself a caliper bracket from a '84-'87 prelude SI (#5/6 in the 1st pic)
You then also need the caliper bracket from the prelude (due to close mounting holes) (the bracket that the bolt #35 goes into.. 2nd pic)
You can use the later calipers but must have the prelude caliper brackets (pic above) (the caliper spacing is all the same on the two mounting studs (#22/38.. 3rd pic)
You can use any rear hub from a civic '88 and newer(#1.. 4th pic) the only difference is that rear disc hubs have the threaded locations to bolt the disc in place
You must machine the outer lip to accept the 1st gen outer bearing, and then place washer's between the new outer bearing and the original inside bearing( this is required so the bearings are not crushed when tightened)
You also need to double up the factory collar, in order to center the rotor in the caliper(#1.. 5th pic)
I usually run the caliper on the backside of the rotor, the e--brake mounting bracket is not used, you can use your original brake line hole as emergency brake cable mount, the brake cables can be used from any Honda with rear disc
You also need the e--brake handle and cable ( 6th pic)
No bias control is needed.. the braking is perfectly matched.. the stock master works fine, but for even better braking power, upgrade the master to a '86-'89 Acura legend booster/master, it's either a 7/8 or 15/16 bore. it's a bolt on, the only thing required is re--bending the brake lines to the opposite side of the master, and enlarging the holes in the firewall one size bigger and voila.
The washer's that go between the two bearings only need to be as big as the 1200 outer bearing (inside diameter to fit the shaft) the outside diameter must be smaller than the 1200 outer bearing, basically it will act as a cushion when you tighten down the nut .
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