Engine Cradle

[Randy]

I have to make a lot of extra space in my tiny garage for a trailer.
I removed the sheet metal brake. The disassembly may have enhanced an injury above.
Rearranged some cub bards so I could slide my work bench with the press in between.
Now last thing is to get the engine off the engine stand and into and into an engine cradle that I can hide on the floor just below the engine bay of the car.

Bruce shared these pictures with me of the ones he made.
They can easily be put on top of a dolly. Princess Auto usually has them for about $20.00,
I plan on welding some caster wheels on the bottom, I have a source to get them free.

[Randy]

Finally found time to make up the cradle.

The bottom is made up from angle iron, could be from Bruce’s bed frame. The uprights are made from 1-1/4 square tubing salvaged from an old Philips Lighting floor display.

It about 22” long by about 16” wide and 24 inches high, that should allow clearance of a carburetor and Weber air cleaner.
The upper cross member is 13” up from the bottom on Center, I should have put it on top of the line to allow for oil pan clearance due to the weight flex. The lower I had to put in on an angle and drilled a hole in the back of the lower brace to go over the engine transmission alignment pin.

I figure if I weld my free casters to the bottom I won’t have any clearance issues. It just sits on the oil pan on the dolly.
I guess little table saw feet could easily be put on to clear if just sitting on the floor.

Next step is to transfer my good motor to the cradle.

I would like to Thank Bruce for his wisdom and insight into doing this cradle. Also for the angle iron and the other bits he gladly offered to build this little project.

[Randy]

If I do anther one I would find a better blade to cut the corners at 45’. The blade I bought for my miter box says it cuts 1/4” but struggled with 1/8”. I would try a large cut off disc in the chop saw rather that the Steel one I used.

The mini grinder with a cut off is not quite big enough to cut through all the way as you can see in one of the pictures.
Then again a hack saw can be used but would involve a lot of extra effort that my wrist cannot do. (Another Injury)

[Randy]

Well I took a couple of inches off the end so it will be almost flush with the flywheel.
I welded some free casters on the bottom, that makes the total height 28” and proved to protect the air cleaner.
I re drilled the bolt holes a little bigger as it is more difficult to lower a complete motor with all that extra weight. I also cannot balance the motor very well with a chain as the Tory rod bolt hole is drowned off the end of the head, so I put the chain on the exhaust stud at that end.

The other thing to consider is the length of the bolts required. The engine stand bracket is 2” thick and my stand is 1-1/4 thick. I ended up cutting some 3/4” wood strapping to put on the inside. It is needed anyway to allow the extra space for the end of the crank as it is not flush with the end of the block.
The Center section could really be cut out to allow for it. Either way will work if you have the correct size bolts.

I may make a bracket to properly bolt onto the two exhaust studs at the transmission end, a 30-45 bend would allow for a chain link to fit. It would be interesting to know where the perfect balance is for dropping a motor in a first gen Civic.

I just jacked up the front end a rolled the motor underneath for out of the way storage while I continue to make more space in the garage for the trailer.

[Randy]

Here is the video below